Model a problems.....

T

THETONY

Member
Having a problem trying to start my car! It starts and runs for about 30 seconds then dies!
I have checked everything and replaced everything except the coil and I have a brand new one to use.
I noticed when I try and crank it the points do not open?
Could the cam be loose? How do I tighten that down? I have a cam wrench.Do I use the cam wrench to hold the cam in place and with a screw driver tigten down the cam screw? The crank it to check the gap of the poins on all four points?
I have a good gas flow so it is NOT a gas problem.
What else could it be? I also replaced the pop out switch.
I am very depressed over this as I wish to enjoy the car.
Can anybody help?
Thanks-
Tony
MMANERO1@WEBTV.NET
 
Yes the points must open and close, and the cam must turn when the engine is cranked and the car must be timed correctly. Do a search on this site this has been talked about many times. Also you can google how to tie a model a ford and you will find lots of good info.
 
Does the cam turn while cranking?? If so, adj the points to about .020 and try to start. Also do a search as suggested above. Keep us updated.
Paul in CT
 
It starts and runs for about 30 seconds then dies!
end quote
But the points don't open ? If the points don't open, the engine won't run.
Does the distributor shaft turn while the engine is being turned over/cranked ? The cam screw should be tight for this ? If so, then do the below. If not, then there is a problem with the cam timing gear, distributor drive gear or distributor shaft.
The cam wrench is used to turn and hold the cam in place while the screw is tightened. Set the points to .020-.022 and then set the timing.
 
I was having trouble keeping my 31 running. I found the point block was worn out the tighten down screw would no longer stay tight. The gap kept closing up. I actually put in a modern upper plate in the dizzy. Now Walter starts up every time. Hasn't died since.
 
Scroll down to the thread (another in the long line of timing questions. If the distributor cam isn't turning, the cam screw may be loose. Read post number 14 for a hopefully less confusing explaination on how to set the timing. How to adjust the points will depend on what style points that you have. The recommended gap ranges from .018 to .022 . I like the wider gap but what ever it takes will work
 
I was working on a car recently with the same symptoms.it turned out to be the coil
Sorry, guess I can't read. ( Points not opening)
 
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When your car dies can you start it up right away or do you have to wait for a certain amount of time before it will re-start?
When it quits running does it die suddenly or sputter and stop?

To me if it runs for 30 seconds, dies and then restarts in a fairly short amount of time only to do it again it sounds as if it could still be fuel related.

The points not opening should't allow it to start at all.

Dave
 
Perhaps you have the same problem as I did about 30 years ago while trying to get mu cousin's car to run for the local 4th of July parade. I did all the normal prep work to start the car with the final steps of turning on the the key, turning on the gas gas, pull out the choke and and step on the starter button. The car staarted right up and ran for about thirty seconds then died. I then turned off the gas and key and started doing checks. Not at all fmailiar iwth Model A's I checked the point gap, the spark, timine , etc. After all the checks (not finding anything wrong, I tried to start the cat again usint the process above. The car started just fine but again died after 30 seconds. I repeated this a few more times and then discovered that I was actually turning the gas off when I thought it was on and on when I thought it was being turend off. Once I corrected my error the car started fine and continued to run well. Naturally we did not get the car in the parade that year.

Bottom line, be sure your gas is in the on position. I hope your fix is taht easy.
Supergnat
 
Just a comment about Supergnat's comment, the gas valve lever must be DOWN, not level.(if that makes any sense)
 
I have the '31 indented firewall with the gas valve on the engine side of the firewall. I finally had to mark it with a sharpie to remind me which way was "off". The handle does not point in the direction of flow like modern ball valves do.
 
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