Model a problems yet!

T

THETONY

Member
Hi-
I tried to crank my Model A to open the points to check the gap,when I did this I noticed the cam screw is turning but the points are NOT opening up.Can the cam screw be loose? Do I use the cam wrench on it and with a screw driver tighten it down? Then try cranking it again?
I have replaced everything possible.
The car runs for about 30 secounds and dies! Then will start up again and die.
What else can I do? I have a new coil for it and replaced all the needed parts,carb,distributor,condensor.
It did run and then stopped and has been like that ever since.
I even asked for help working on the car and hope to find it if possible.
When it runs it sounds great but again dies after 30 seconds.
Any ideas? Why does the cam screw turn but the points don't open up for me?
Could it be the cam shaft on the distributor?
I even replaced the pop out switch.
and amp gauge.
I took out the plugs and clean and gaped them again as well.
I am hoping to find a person to come to my garage and give me a hand to get the car running so I can drive it for a few more months before winter sets in.
Thanks-
 
Hello Tony.
Sorry to hear of your problems with your A. I see this is the fourth time you have posted this nearly identical post, describing this list of nearly identical questions. The previous three times others have replied with thoughts, suggestions, good advice, inquires of where you are to see if they are local to you, and advice of where to get the hands-on help you keep saying that you need.

After their offers, and help that has been provided, there are no replies, feedback, or thanks posted back from you in any of those threads.

Here are three good threads for you to review to help you with your problems. Pick one of them, and follow through with the help that you have been given already, and that Model A will be sorted out in no time. Oh, and post pictures of it, we love pictures.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116793

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106271

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105983
 
Hi-
Yes,I have posted before and did answer private messages and did what I was told.
I am also disabled and can't work on the car 24/7 and only when I am feeling good.
It has to be a simple problem with the car and nothing major? I just asked about the cam screw turning and the points were not opening?
Thank You-
I will post pictures of the car when I get it running.
Thank You-
Tony
 
The cam screw should only turn back and forth the same amount as the shaft tangs have freeplay. If you can spin the rotor around with your fingers, then the screw is loose or the screw isn't pressing the cam tight to the shaft. Be sure the lock washer is under the screw head.

This sound like a fuel problem. Remove the fuel line at the carb and let the gas flow into a quart jar. It should have a good strong flow until the jar is half full, then you can quit. Make sure the fuel line doesn't extend more than about 1/8" beyond the brass furrule.
 
Ok, if you reply to this post with answers to questions asked, we will know if you are making progress.

You say the cam screw is turning, I presume you mean the screw that holds the Cam onto the shaft. So, is the Cam turning with the screw, or is the screw spinning within the cam.

If the cam is turning, can you see if the cam follower on the points is making contact with the cam?

If the cam follower on the points is not making contact with the cam, the can you move the points to open and close them with a screwdriver? (Ignition off).

I think I read in another one of your posts that it would run for a while, then quit. If that condition still exists, then your points have to be opening and closing.
 
A number of answers were given in the previous posts that would get this engine running. As said before, the points have to open [ as well as close] in order for the engine to run. The points should be set to .020-.022" by loosening the points retainer screw and moving the plate [then tighten]while the points rubbing block is on the/a high spot of the cam. The timing is adjusted by setting the timing pin in the gear, adjusting/turning the points cam[ by the cam screw] until the points just start to open [ taking up the slack/backlash] while the rotor is pointed just past #1 cylinder [ right front fender].
But, if the engine runs, the problem is probably fuel related.
 
Thank You for all your replies! I am not feeling well and took a day off not working on the car as I can't stand for any long periods of time.
I will manage and get the car running again.
I appreciate all of your patience with me and my posts.
If I didn't reply back directly to you I am very sorry!
You are all so kind and I appreciate your help.
I was once well and didn't have to ask for help.
I spend my sitting time reading books about the car.
Wish I had all of you in my garage and with my car.
I will try and post pictures of the car asap! You will all love it.It is a 31 Coupe! and I bought it in 1979 and restored it with a friend who knew nothing about Model A Ford's but did an excellent job in painting my car.
It won a first junior and senior at Hershey 2 yrs in a row and then I became ill.
I drive the car as much as possible but had a long year and didn't get a chance to enjoy driving her.Then I had problems with it and hope to have it fixed soon.
Thanks-
Tony
 
Hi Tony,
You don't need to be here every day, just post your progress when you can. Just keep it on this thread so folks here can follow along. Even if a couple of weeks go by, just pull up this thread and add to it.

And as others have asked, where are you in New Jersey, someone may be close by.

So, Does the car still start and run for a bit and then stall?
 
I've seen model A's with worn distributors act the way that you describe. Here is what I would try, you really have nothing to lose. Remove the spark plugs so you don't have to fight compression. The points cam has four lobes or high spots. Turn the engine over until the rubbing block on the points is exactly on top of one of the high spots on the cam. loosen the lock screw on top of the adjustable points block. Turn the adjustable point counter clockwise and watch the points gap as it opens. If you have a feeler gauge set the gap anywhere from .018 to .022 with slight drag. If you don't have a feeler guage, you can just play it by ear and just give the points a little gap. don't forget to tighten the lock screw on the adjustable point block and give it another try.
 
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Hi-
Update! Ed S,stopped by and went out of his way before going on a trip to look at my car.It is a gas problem!
Where the shutoff goes into the gas tank,there is a teflon tape there on the threads,we think tape might be covering up some of the gas flow to the gas line and carb.The car does run! but it is in need of gas.
Now,I plan on draining the gas tank and taking off the gas line underneath the dash and taking off the shutoff and checking it or if any blockage is there.
I hope that does it.I really appreciate all the help and correct answers you have given me.We did find 2 lobes on th cam out of place and the points needed to be set only in 2 locations as they were closed.
Now that is fine,but it is starving for gas.
I will keep you all posted!
I do again appreciate all your answers and help and I will post a picture of my car! You will enjoy it.
Thanks-
I am so happy now and the pains in my legs and back have gone away some.
Tony
 
While the valve is out be sure to install the thin filter. I wouldn't be without it, even though my tank is like new inside.

Also I'd use Permatex #2 or pipe dope instead of the tape on the threads. The sealant is always applied to the male thread, rather than the female thread. That way any excess will stay on the outside of the fitting.
 
I agree, Teflon tape causes more problems than it ever solved. I don't even use it when I have to do household plumbing.
 
Yep, me too ! That teflon crap causes nothing but problems. The only time I use it is if there is a fitting that I want to be removable easily and loosely fitted.
 
Teflon tape is not bad, it is just frequently misused.

Teflon tape, although used as, and sometimes sold as a thread sealer for metal, was actually developed by Dupont, in the tape form as a thread lubricant for the developing (1920's) plastic pipe industry. They also developed the Teflon product in a powder form for metal. Others put the powder into a paste. It is illegal to use Teflon tape in aircraft systems due to the probability of tape fragments migrating. There are now tapes for metal pipe, but the original white tape was never intended to be a thread sealer for metal. I do know that Plumbers make use of it, so it must be building code approved. However it is illegal to use it in Gas installations that use the Black Pipe.

Just a matter of using the right product or tool for the job. The tape is simply not the right product in fuel or hydraulic applications. In my opinion, not metal taper pipe joints either although a million plumbers will likley disagree.:)
 
Well an update to Tony's engine dilemma. He called me the other day and said he drained the tank, and removed the shut off valve and found the valve was plugged with sludge.It was not the Teflon tape after all. He cleaned it out, but feared there was more sludge in the tank. He asked if using a tank and carb cleaner would be helpful and I said to put it in the tank with a gal. of hi-test gas and let it soak for a day. Then drain the tank, reinstall the gas shut off and run a tank of high test gas through the engine to burn off any junk left in the tank. Then he should remove the shut off and install the screen on top of the shut off, and hopefully be good to go.
 
I agree with Ray. The screen or stand up filter is a must in many cases. I use the stand up filter in all of mine.
 
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