model a points shot?

W

workingclass42

Senior Member
Hello guys.just wanna say thanks for all your help in the best.I have a 30 sport coupe.Engine ran good.besides carb needing to be rebuilt.had carb rebuilt.now i am not getting spark.here is what my points look like.kinda looks like so cheap repop junk.Should i replace my coil,condensor and points?thanks guys
 
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They are wore enough to replace. If that was your problem, who knows. I would suggest replacing the points and condenser, less than $20.00, carefully install and adjust them and see where you are at. I am not a fan of throwing in lots of parts to see what works. I tell my students to " Test, don't guess".
 
Those are the "late model" style points, and look to have a lot of miles on them. I'd try dressing them, and cleaning them up first, and resetting the gap. Check to make sure you have fire at the the points. Dont just run out and replace the coil until you prove to yourself its bad.
Good Luck!:)
 
Thanks guys.i pulled a plug and put the tip on a head stud.cranked motor over.and had no spark.Should i pull the. Coil wire and check for spark there?
 
workingclass42 said:
Thanks guys.i pulled a plug and put the tip on a head stud.cranked motor over.and had no spark.Should i pull the. Coil wire and check for spark there?
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Yes, but those points look bad. You could try a points file on them, but I'd replace them. Buy a new burnout proof condenser also. Carrying a spare condenser doesn't hurt.
 
If those points were still installed, they would be easy to test for function. Just stop the engine with the points closed, then turn the key on and measure the voltage on the movable contact. Clip the voltmeter positive clip to a good ground and touch the other meter lead to the movable contact. With the meter set on the lowest DC voltage scale, it should read 0 volts. If it reads any voltage then the contacts have poor conductivity. They will need to be filed and tested again, or replaced.

Also move the meter negative lead to the stationary contact just to be sure the distributor is well gounded to the head. Again it should read 0 volts.
 
I remember years ago they had what they called ventilated points, they had holes in them..I remember putting some in my 1950 Ford..
 
Tom Cavallaro said:
Nothing there to file on the one side....looks like it burned a hole !
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They are made that way. Typically classified as a "heavy duty" set of points.
At least in the NAPA Echlin line, this is the way to tell if you have the standard duty (solid) or the heavy duty ( hole)
I agree with the replacing, if they are readily available, but around here NAPA is closed after dinner time on Saturday. When it meant the difference between riding and walking, I've made do with some that looked a lot worse.
I've had better luck with a small whet rock, or honing stone than with the point file. I had never heard that the points were tungsten ( I learned something else from Tom W :) ) but I do know that the file just kind of glides across them and doesnt really dig in and cut.Be sure they butt up square, if not they will burn quickly in the small area they touch.
Good Luck:)
 
TO file points: Grind off the file handle, put the file in BACKWARDS, then pull the file out, while putting some pressure on the moveable arm with your left index finger, to produce a good, smooth cutting action, then wipe the contacts well. Alignment of the point contacts is also VERY IMPORTANT. I used to have a "T" shaped tool, designed to bend either the moveable arm, or the fixed contact. I wonder if they're still available??
I ran the new type points in Minerva, with a longer pig tail wire & They worked well, I must have gotten a QUALITY set of points! That same distributor, with the same points, is going into Vermin's EMPTY distributor hole.
Be sure to clean the contacts on NEW points, Lucas used a cosmoline type of stuff, to protect their SOLID TUNGSTEN point contacts! I'd just open the points, clamp them on the button strip of my shirt, & slide them on the strip, to clean the coating off.
Bill W.
 
I used to rebuild the Railroad Relays, and some contacts were of silver and some tungsten. I would have to get the alignment and the polishing down to the resistance would have to be on a dry contact less then .009. On the tungsten contacts the next day....would be .255 or more. Just the air would corrode them.
 
Years ago you could buy "Contact Cleaner " in an aerosol can, that was, I think, Freon 11. (I could be wrong) I'm sure there is still some modern day substitute that doesnt work as well.
To add to Bill W's advice, to clean points that are still installed you can drag a dollar bill or a business card through there to get the residue off after filing/cleaning.
Tom, I remember silver contacts when I first got into industry. I'm sure you could teach us all a little about dressing points.I cant say that I've ever checked the resistance across a closed set of points. Something to try one day. I have checked them with a trouble light though.
 
Thanks for all your help guys.everyone is always willing to help.put in new points and car runs like a dream.first stock model a.so I am learning,thanks for your patience and help.josh
 

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Glad that you got it running again.:)
Something to keep in mind, after it runs a while the rubbing block will probably wear a bit, closing up the gap and retarding the time. You'll just need to reset the gap.
Good Luck!:)
 
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