model a original head

reggiedog

reggiedog

Well-known member
HI: Does any one know how to get the head off the motor without cracking the head.

It's been on there about 35+ years and I'm at the end of trying to get it off I have tried everything I can think of and a few other things and not a thing.

It just don't want to move at all I don't have a head puller but someone told me that won't make a difference anyway.

And from what I have seen on the internet you don't need one anyway you don't even need a chain like I thought or a picker like I thought.

But I havn't tried what I seen on the net with the fire truck and a screw driver is not what I would do.

But nothing works for me as of yet what I seen on there looks like the head would crack if I did it that way.

But thanks let me know
 
A head puller makes a HUGE difference! Many not work on a given few, but I can assure you it has worked for me, even on boat anchors that have been outside for 50 years....
 
The way I removed mine, which is probably the wrong, was I kept spraying the studs and around the head with PB Blaster a couple times a day. Then I took a wide paint scraper and knocked it in the corners of the head lightly, and it came loose. You don't want to tap it in to far because it can cause damage to the valves. I hit the head lightly and sprayed PB Blaster in the areas I was tapping on, then I just kept going around to each corner tapping lightly and it came off without bending the corners of the head and block . I know I will probably will hear about it on here, but thats what I did.
 
I'm going to try these Idea's and see if it works but I don't have a head puller to do the one Idea or a picker to lift the motor a little for lift on the head.
I haven't tried the one idea but I think I will try it and see what happens I just think the head is rusted to the studs more then I thought.
 
Spray all the studs with Kroil and let it soak in, then as Steve said, a head puller is your best bet. I made my own head puller like the one the dealers sell, plus I made another smaller puller to fit over the water pump studs so I get additional puller power. Even with a head puller installed, on one engine I still had to go around the gasket and tap in thin knife blades to get the head loose.
 

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I tried the Kroil for days 4 days and I din't think it did a thing and a rubber mallet to pound the corners of the head.

I still think the head is rusted to the studs a lot more then I thought I have to find something better then Kroil to spray on the studs to brake it lose better then Kroil did or does.
 
Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Build a "dam" around each stud with putty and fill with the mixture and let sit or apply with a small brush.
Paul in CT
 
I tiped a LOOOONG thing about how we got Vermin's head off, "maybe" search will bring it up??
Basically, bought a cheep Oriental Meat Cleaver, the kind that goes from a razor like edge & up to about 1/8" thick.
Cut it into 4 wedges with a cut-off wheel & drove them into the head gasket packing at each corner. They surely can exert "thousands" of lbs. of pressure! We had NARY even a scratch on the head or block!!! The culprits were MANY studs rusted to the head.
Bill W.
(WE EVEN DISPELLED THE THEORY THAT CUCUMBER JUICE WOULD REMOVE RUST!)
 
Another strategy is to put the nuts back on, but a few turns from tight, then with a small hammer tap sideways from every direction ---adding your favorit penetrating oil, this will help loosen the bond of the stud to the hole,
 
I always soak the studs with Kroil for a couple of days. Then use a bottle jack between the generator mount and the bottom,front of the head and jack it up until it breaks loose.
 
What about draining the water, loosening the head nuts a bit and then starting the
engine to 'pop' the head loose? Or is too crazy?
 
I too fought a head. I did loosen the nuts and started the car, went "WHOOSH. "
That was that, three hours later with a head puller and maple wedges it was off and yes I soaked the studs for a couple of weeks. it was a chore but looking back on it is was kinda fun.
 
Anteek29 said:
What about draining the water, loosening the head nuts a bit and then starting the
engine to 'pop' the head loose? Or is too crazy?
Click to expand...

I did this without starting by leaving the pop-out switch OFF - just turn the engine over by pushing the starter button.

But this may be a former boat anchor hoping for a new life on America's roadways.

Joe K
 
"What about draining the water, loosening the head nuts a bit and then starting the
engine to 'pop' the head loose? Or is too crazy?"

Nope, experienced mechanics have been doing it that way forever

careful jamming wedges under the head to pry it off:
we already have a damaged valve on another thread from someone doing this
oh you mean there are valves under there?
 
I lifted the whole front of the truck up by 2 eye hooks in the sparkplug holes,the head never budged,soaked and heated studs for weeks,nothing,finally drove wedges between head and block got it off only took a month.
 
I hope it won't take that long but did I forget to say the motor is OUT of the car it's just the motor and ****** only.
And I have NO hoist like I said before to use a head puller or anything else like that and NO chain or any kind of hoist to use to do anything like that to pull the head off in any way.
I can only do it without the hoist or puller or the eye hooks that go into the spark plug holes I've seen on the net where they took the head off without anything like the puller or hooks.
But there's got to be a better way of doing it then they did on the fire truck watching that over and over you would think that would crack the head or scratch the crap out of it or the motor itself.
That's NOT the way I want to do it there's got to be another way of doing it I know a picker would help but don't have one or a hoist so I have to do it the old fashion way and what is that way is the thing I have NO clue on that one never did this before had no reason to do it.
 
Yes it turns over by hand only it's out of the car and no battery to hook up to it so hand is the only way I have to turn it over with. But a rope thing has any one ever tried that and does it work all the time or just by chance and can you put it down all 4 of them or just one of them at a time.
And how much rope do you put in there 3 feet or more or how much rope and what one can you or should you put it in or just put it in the end ones only.
 
You are limited with the engine out of the car. I would do what Kurt said, screw the nuts on and hit them sideways to jar the rust loose (hopefully). If fact I'd give it a few rattles with an air hammer. Lots of Kroil first though.
 
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