Model a original beading

reggiedog

Well-known member
HI: Does any body know where I can have some repo patch beading re-done to the same as the original beading. I have two door patches for a late 31 Deluxe Tudor that I need the beading to be re-done to the original beading. I know I could do it myself but I'm NO good at doing that type of metal work and don't have the tools to do it. So here I am looking for some one that has the stuff and tools to re-do the beading on my repo patches to be the same as the original beading. I found a place where I can buy repo patches for the cowl that r the same beading as the original. But now I need to find some one that can do the repo door patches I have the patches. Thanks PLEASE let me know reggiedog
 
Don't think the replacement panels can be made to "match" the original bead on the car. I just returned a set of panels for the bead not matching. When I took a carefull measurement I found the replacement bead was somewhat wider than original.
I will be getting a set of bead roller dies made to match the bead on the car. Maybe I can help when I get the testing of the dies done. The bead is one of the first things I look at on a Model A.
 
Thank's let me know when that is????. But most of my repo panels r smaller then the originals on my car any way. But let me know when u get your die sets I wanted to buy a bead roller also but there too much money for me. reggiedog
 
Here is the patch panel I made on the left, the originals in the middle and the reproduction on the right. I think the bead I made is closer to the original. I just played with the dies that come with most bead rollers. The bottom picture shows how I have my dies set.
cowl-patch.jpg

bead-roller.jpg

bead-roller.jpg
 
Bill Stipe advertises patch panels that he makes that he claims are very close to the original bead.
 
Do it yourself cause you are not going find anything other then the Bill Stipe cowl panels that will be close to correct.

You can make your own patches with a small arbor press and a pair of dies you make yourself. The bead roller does not allow the ends to be formed properly and that is one of the reasons why some commercial patches are not very good.

To put them in you need to learn metal work anyway. Go to my website and poke around and feel free to ask me questions. With time and a little knowledge you can make a lot of metal parts with simple tools you have laying around or make yourself. I started my car with no proper understanding of metal. With time and some experimentation I found the metal work was not so bad to get very good results.

The other problem with commercial patches is they are flat. They do not have the compound curves and they will not work well. You must get the patch to match the curves before you start welding!
 
Thanks for the compliment on my 30-31 cowl patches.

My Son Tony and I are gearing up to make the 30-31 tudor and pickup door bottom patches but it may be a little while my digitizing probe is down right now. I have to redo the controls on my Horizontal boring mill as soon as the 5 axis machine for doing the shocks goes out the door January 2012.

I should have some cash to rebuild my boring mill and add the digitizing probe software. I want to make the panels as close to perfect as I can because I only have one chance to cut the dies. The cowls cost a little over $7000 for each side when we were all said and done so no mistakes!

Also I have a plaster mold off of an original roadster rear trunk corner and would like to duplicate those also. I have done the metal work on 4 coupes in my life and the trunk corners a terrible that are on the market and a waist of money.
I hear rumor that there are several Ford dies for these and they are all a little different but every car I did so far the covers were not even close.

I would a preciate any input on any of the patchs out there good or bad if you guys don't mine.

Bill Stipe

www.stipemachine.com
 

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