Model A only runs 40 miles

Most of the Small bore engines have an AF------- engine number and frame number,.
of course that can be changed sometimes if rebuilt.
If it is one of those 40-45 would seem about right
 
Do you really think low tire pressure or low compression will or could cause a car to run poor and bike after 40 or 60 miles.
Since the condenser is cheap and easy to change.......
The valve clearance spuds far fetched but I once did a fifties Jaguar that would dies as soon as it warmed up, got hot. It had almost no valve clearance when cold, when it got hot it had no compression. The valves wouldn’t quite close enough to hold any compression.
I’m still suggesting condenser.
 
Where was your friends Model A built? If it is a European car some of those had the small 3" Bore engine
.Look at the cylinder castings on the side of the engine if there is a large gap between the cylinder outline on 2 and 3 cylinder about 2" then it is the small engine .
they also had 4.55 rear axle ratio from standard the larger engine had 3.78 gears


Here is a picture of the two blocks, small bore on top.
 

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I am with aarongriffey. REPLACE THE CONDENSER!!! I struggled for weeks with similar issues. Yesterday I went on a tour and had to replace the condenser again to get home!
 
Mine is running rich and also low on power.....
the other day I noticed the flow maze filter on it has smoke coming out and the screen is all clogged with oil. next week the flow maze is gone.
 
Check to make sure the ferrule is at the very end of the gas line going into the carb. If it hits the screen, it can restrict flow. It should not matter on a tilliston, but easy to check.
 
I would also suggest checking exhaust and manifold for blockage. Critters can get in there with acorns etc and create a restriction. Worth a check happened to me. John
 
Thanks for the full feedback. I'll cover all of the points for coping with the processes, starting with the cheapest measure ... But it will take a while.
Thank you so far to everyone.

Greetings Andy
 
Check for vacuum leak at intake manifold where bolted to the engine block; simple and cost free, often the culprit for poor running. Squirt oil on the joint and see if it is pulled into the manifold, or check with propane from an unlit torch which will speed up the idle if drawn into the manifold.
 
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