Model A motor oil?.

Fartman

Fartman

Member
Hi Guys,I have just bought a 1928 Model A Ford and want to change the motor oil.can i run a modern oil or do i need to use a specialty oil,and what weight oil do i use.thanks Martin
 
welcome to the club....
on the top of the page is a search box... type in motor oil and 6 months worth of reading material will pop up..
there are many variables involved.......
 
In a word, yes, you can use modern oils, but, as stated above read all of the nuances of why people use what they do in their particular car.
 
You will find approximately 187 different reasons why you can or cannot use detergent oils. FWIW I use Valvoline 10W40.
 
What I did is run a detergent oil after I got my Model A, ran it for about 2 months ~200miles --assuming it had a non-detergent oil originally with the idea the 1st change with detergent might clean out older dirt.

I think the more import question is if one is using a multi-grade oil and the A is to run on 30 grade, what is the grade range.. 15W40 seems to come up more than often. I suspect the older engines would run better now with a higher weight oil when at full temperature.
 
Use Shell Rotella 15-40 and you'll do fine. If the pan has sludge you'll have to drop the pan and remove the dipper tray to clean it out. Agitating with diesel fuel won't clean the sludge, it must be removed. I've tried short cuts, but they don't work. I made a drain plug with an air hookup and let diesel bubble for an hour, then drained it. I repeated this 3 times, and finally dropped the pan to remove the sluge. Trying a shortcut will waste time and money.
 
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After buying & obtaining a few used vintage tractor engines, used Model A engines, & other engines, & observing thousands of used military engines, one learns that if one wants an engine to "last" after acquiring same, it is a good practice to trust absolutely no vehicle owner, no driver, & no former mechanic's story & proceed to remove the oil pan & side cover to verify how much sludge is present in the bottom of the oil pan & the bottom of valve chamber.

In over 90% of vintage engines, many observe far too much sludge for caring & responsible minded maintenance mechanics.

But, each to his own -- & many will say: "This is good enough."

It is similar to the sign in my Dentist's office:

You don't have to floss all of your teeth -- just the one's you want to keep.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
After buying & obtaining a few used vintage tractor engines, used Model A engines, & other engines, & observing thousands of used military engines, one learns that if one wants an engine to "last" after acquiring same, it is a good practice to trust absolutely no vehicle owner, no driver, & no former mechanic's story & proceed to remove the oil pan & side cover to verify how much sludge is present in the bottom of the oil pan & the bottom of valve chamber.

In over 90% of vintage engines, many observe far too much sludge for caring & responsible minded maintenance mechanics.

But, each to his own -- & many will say: "This is good enough."

It is similar to the sign in my Dentist's office:
K
You don't have to floss all of your teeth -- just the one's you want to keep.
Click to expand...

Very sound advice as usual !
Wayne
 
It's really best to decide for your self, though the info in this thread is good so far!

The majority of people don't actually understand the SAE multiviscosity ratings or the term "detergent", and will give advice based on not actually knowing what they're talking about.

The info in this thread is good so far!

I'd suggest reading this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

And also be aware that "Henry" couldn't recommend Multi-vis or detergent oils, because they weren't invented until the Model A was an old car! Later models used it, because it had been invented by then, and was known to be a good idea.

Another factor to consider is cost (of course). Basically, pick a second number that suits you (based on suspected engine condition/climate etc, then the lowest first number you're willing to pay for.

For a second number, you're probably going to be choosing between 30 and 40.



I use a 15W-40 Valvoline as some others do. IF I didn't compromise for cost, I'd use 0W-40.

It's quite possible one of the 90% who don't know how the ratings work will chime in soon to say a 0W-40 is too thin.

They say that, because they don't know that both oils are thinniest at operating temps, so are both the SAME viscosity at their thinnest (hot), but the 0W-40 gives BETTER flow during cold starts (which is where we know most wear occurs).

The article linked above is very detailed, but explains oil very well.
 
I have a secret formula special Model A engine oil that I will sell for $50. per quart, plus air freight. It's use will remedy any engine noises, low tire pressure, dim lights, brake wear, loose bolts, point gap, radiator leaks, body dents, dull paint and any digestive problems you may have. If you don't want to get in on this exceptional deal, try some modern 10w40, or 10w30 if your engine is in good condition.
 
johnsor said:
I have a secret formula special Model A engine oil that I will sell for $50. per quart, plus air freight. It's use will remedy any engine noises, low tire pressure, dim lights, brake wear, loose bolts, point gap, radiator leaks, body dents, dull paint and any digestive problems you may have. If you don't want to get in on this exceptional deal, try some modern 10w40, or 10w30 if your engine is in good condition.
Click to expand...

you must be spending your time in Washington DC:eek:
 
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