Model A motor froze-up

BetsyModelA; Betsy is running nicely. Only problem said:
Not necessarily, as long as the pipe or the side of the muffler didn't split or spit the guts out somewhere you should be fine.

Make sure the exhaust flange to manifold line up straight.

Darryl in Fairbanks
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darrylkmc,
Thanks for your helpful response. I managed to shove the long pipe into the bigger round part (not sure what it is called). Should I be welding the two parts together? I know the two parts will come apart again. Perhaps, I can find some baling wire to hold them together for a more permanent fix.
 
BetsyModelA said:
darrylkmc,
Thanks for your helpful response. I managed to shove the long pipe into the bigger round part (not sure what it is called). Should I be welding the two parts together? I know the two parts will come apart again. Perhaps, I can find some baling wire to hold them together for a more permanent fix.
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Can you provide a photo of what you are looking at, as the muffler should be one piece from the flange at the manifold to the end of the tailpipe.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 
If you go to my homepage you will see two pictures I took of the muffler. I was unable to pull the two apart for a picture. However, in one of the photos you can see not only where it is broken apart, but also a rusted out hole. Suggestions appreciated.
 
Sorry to say but it looks to me like you need a new muffler exhaust system. To bad you live so far away, I have a good used one in the shop.
 
All of the part houses carry them. I think I would make it easier on yourself and just order through them. Then you know you are not getting junk either. If you are in ND then I would probably try Snyder's or Berts. They are a little closer to you and may be less shipping.
 
You're right, 31 Tudor, I wasn't thinking of the size and bulk of the object. I have ordered from Snyder's before. Sometimes it was the right part, sometimes not. I hate sending back. I'm not familiar with Berts.
 
No,No, Go to Berts, Snyders or Brattons, or a vendor of your choice. Then compare with your Ebay find. Always good to support our vendors. How do I find your webpage? Thanks, Russell. (I need to get one also.)
 
Engine knock problem

Saturday, out for a fun ride (40 -50 miles), I inherited a steady motor knock. When I rev-up to a steady rpm, I get an internal medium knock. Can't be a rod, because it knocks fairly light and steady, but it does knock harder under load - revving it up or on the road, up a grade. Move the spark up to the "start" area and the knock is a little less than real hard and no powere

I need to find an "A" motor mechanic in my area. A couple of Ford Barn partners have sent me a person in Ashville, NC - James Rogers, but I can't locate him. Does anyone know of a good reliable "A" person close by and near Spartanburg - Greenville, South Carolina, to help me out ?
 
Re: Engine knock problem

dlfrisch said:
Saturday, out for a fun ride (40 -50 miles), I inherited a steady motor knock. When I rev-up to a steady rpm, I get an internal medium knock. Can't be a rod, because it knocks fairly light and steady, but it does knock harder under load - revving it up or on the road, up a grade. Move the spark up to the "start" area and the knock is a little less than real hard and no powere

I need to find an "A" motor mechanic in my area. A couple of Ford Barn partners have sent me a person in Ashville, NC - James Rogers, but I can't locate him. Does anyone know of a good reliable "A" person close by and near Spartanburg - Greenville, South Carolina, to help me out ?
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Here is his web site http://model-a-ford-4bangers.com/
 
Russell, thanks for introducing me to Bert's. I am finding mufflers - they are spendy! Now, to find one that fits at an afordable price.
 
Just when you thought things couldn't get any worse...........they actually got better.
Somehow I don't recall seeing the pictures in dishady's reply in #27.
The first picture looks like total junk, but the second picture looks like a completely different ******.

BTW, with 255 replies, some 37,000 views, and no pictures, did this thread really happen? :confused:
 
Do yourself a favor and pull the engine, the cost will most likely be a gasket set. Pulling, pounding and twisting are a great way to make a good engine into a bad engine. Rebuilds are very expensive and you will kick yourself if you ruin the engine in an effort to break it loose. After such a long time sitting, you need to pull the oil pan at the very least and clean the dip tray of sludge and or water. It's really not that hard and if the parts are all serviceable, it will go back together without too much trouble and run for many years.
 
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So is BetsyModelA tearing up the streets of Harvey these days? Does anybody know? I just looked at the pic in her profile, that's a nice looking truck !! Slightly used I'd call it.I'd leave it just the way it is!
 
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