Model A looses power

Well, about getting the Model A problem resolved.....
I went to a local car show, just over 20 miles away and it ran great going to the show. Coming home, I went about 15 miles and it decided to do the same thing...back fire a few times and loss of power. This time I wasn't able to limp home so ended up having it flat-bedded
I plan to change the coil, which one of the few things I didn't change out yet since it was a new coil.
I do have another question or possible issue; I was checking the timing with the timing pin inserted and as I was hand cranking to look for the indent in the gear I noticed the timing pin was moving in and out as I was cranking. I found the indent with the pin but I don't remember the timing pin moving in and out as it was being hand cranked. Could I have a bad timing gear or is this normal? It is a fiber timing gear if that makes any difference?
 
The fiber timing gear is a known source of problems, sometimes they strip out completely, might be worth checking it out by removing the cover , there is 4 bolts underneath from oil pan that will have to be removed along with the pins you can see on front of cover , you also may want to to do a search on the Ford Barn for previous post on timing gear . Best of luck 🤞
 
Also before timing gear , recheck for rust , dirt in fuel system, I would restart there , sometimes rust keeps coming from tank , replugging up things .Bad condensers will cause similar problems, sometimes the new condenser aren’t much better than the one it replaced, it gets hot and then brakes down .Check your charging rate also I had a 37 Ford that was overheating the coil because some one set the generator on high charge.
 
Thank you, I have a new aluminum timing gear on order from Snyders along with a new coil.
I was reading on the ford barn about "Cam Walk" so I ordered a new plunger and spring to go with the Timing Gear - I Probably shouldn't have, but when I was rebuilding the engine I used the same plunger and spring which was probably the original. Thanks for the heads up on removing the cover.
I put in a new condenser when it happened previously, but to keep me from getting stranded again I'll install another condenser.
Previously, I drained out all the gas (no signs of rust) and replaced the gas filter and put in a new gas screen in the tank and also a new one in the carb
As for the generator, I have it set to a very minimum, just on the Plus side when running - I believe it was only pulling 5 amps when I was doing 45MPH
Thanks again for the advice/assist
 
The cable the runs into the dist could be pressing too hard on that lower plate tab. When it heats up it grows a bit, and just barely touches the distributor housing. Back that cable out about 1 turn. Problem might go away. I have had this happen.
 
Had an intermittent cut cutout like that, turns out there was a leave floating in the tank and it would cover the outlet to stop the flow, then drift away.
 
Contract negotiations weren’t going like some of the union people thought they should, someone put ping pong balls in some gas tanks. The baggage tugs would run for a while and then die, after some time they would restart and run for a while. This problem drove the automotive mechanics crazy until they found the balls. Once this unruly people put crazy glue into loading bridges operating key switches making them in operable before the first wave of morning flights. These issues might have been from only a small hand full of union people, these issues went away after a few where fired !
 
Hopefully I'll be getting the Timing gear and coil today. I already have the hood and radiator pulled to give me more access.
The tank is as clean as it gets (no leaves or pulled sealant)
I will check the distributor cable and turn it back a turn - good suggestion
I'll update once I get the gear and ignition coil installed
 
Well...Pulled the timing cover off expecting to replace the cam spring and noted the Idiot who rebuilt the engine evidently didn't torque the timing gear (oh wait, that's me...). The timing gear was hanging loose with the teeth partially chewed up.
I've pulled the old gear off which was pretty ease since it wasn't being held on by much. Put the new aluminium gear on and made certain it was correctly aligned and immediately torqued it to 90 Ft Pounds (Brattons says 100 ft Pounds but I stopped at 90).
I still have to re-assemble the timing gear cover, but figured I will need to drop and clean out the oil pan to be sure no bits of gears are floating around in there.
 
Do not forget to clean the oil pump screen!

Also crud will collect in valve chamber and block the oil feed holes to the main bearings and camshaft ...

Use a "turkey baster" to suck up the oil in chamber then clear crud from bottom of chamber ... the idea is to NOT shove the crud down the oil holes and clog them up.

Many engines have been destroyed when screen or feed holes are clogged up with chunks of timing gear!
 
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Glad you found it. FYI, I have also heard of that little spring and cap falling out from in front of the timing gear allowing the camshaft to occasionally walk out changing the timing dramatically. Sometimes it takes a while to figure things out.
 
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