Model a juice brakes

miff

Senior Member
On the Lanie Family web page they have a very good articial on installing juice brakes on a model a ford.I have tried to contact then about the break pedal hook up , requesting the set up action arms he made on his email. When I send the request it comes back none deliverable. I see he has posts on ford barn . If anyone one has the correct email address please forward to me . Thank you
 
There are two basic methods of activating the the MC pushrod. (with many variations) I have an example of both in my two cars. One requires modifying the pedal and the other does not. I will try to "shorthand" it, not get into a long winded discussion.
1) The pedal gets cut (as on my coupe) and the rod side is relocated to the bottom of the pedal to activate in a opposite manner to your foot travel. (Foot goes forward, the rod pushes back) Back to the MC which is mounted in a reversed direction and activates the brakes. The MC is mounted on a plate attached to the crossmember.
This works well enough except for some flexing in the crossmember. I made a stiffener plate out of angle iron to prevent some of this.
2) The other method is to weld the mounting plate to the frame out side of the chassis and keep the brake rod's direction . Mount the MC outside of the chassis and activate the brakes with the old method using the cross chassis bar/rod. (The old Bar/rod that activated the Mechanical brakes) This plan uses the space under the drivers side splash apron, not the easiest to get to for filling.

I don't like welding on the frame and the MC in #1 is hard enough to fill. I aslo don't like welding an arm on the brake pedal. So neither system is acceptable in my book.
Look at the pictures in my albums My A. there are some of the frame and the plate can be seen. However, if I could talk you out of a Hyd. system, I would. Good Mechanicals are as good. Hydros need more attention, they're definitely higher maintenance.
Terry
 
I saw this on eBay, looks like a bolt-on solution that requires no drilling or welding to the car.
 

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thank you . I forgot to state that I am putting a t5 trans in there I understand that their is not room for a battery box master cylinder to work
 
While it appears to be well made, I question whether there's no drilling. Do the bolts on the back have holes for them already? There's some holes on the cross member. However the MC is in almost the same place as mine is. Will this clear the T5 trans or not, I don't know. The MC shown looks like it's a little smaller than the one I used. It's still in line with the brake pedal. Mine is an older restoration and I can't say what was in the minds of the "Craftsmen" who put it together. It's not what I would have done!
Terry

I saw this on eBay, looks like a bolt-on solution that requires no drilling or welding to the car.
 
... I question whether there's no drilling. Do the bolts on the back have holes for them already? There's some holes on the cross member...
What I said was "There is no drilling to the car." There is drilling, but it's on the box itself, and that is so that the holes in the box can be located accurately to the existing holes in the car. (according to the ad on eBay)

Disclaimer: This is not my box, I don't have one, only saw it and offered up what I saw.

Also, I have the F150 RTS transmission in my pickup, and the seller says it will fit, no problem.
 
I just remembered a different configuration that was shown to me when I was pouring over this on my coupe a while ago. The Mustang MC was located on the passenger side of the frame and was activated by the service brake cross arm. I can't remember the details, but it seemed a little too modified for me.
I believe the battery box mounts are made by a FB member. IIRC it's "Machine Girl" and her partner. Things are starting to come back to me now.
 
"Miller Highspeed Head" has a kit for the 5 speed that mounts on the side of the trans Just contact him he will help you
 
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