Fred K-OR
Well-known member
Terry, here is another huckster you may want to look at.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107132
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107132
Model A Huckster Group
- Thread starter Fred K-OR
- Start date
Terry Woods
New member
MikeK from Salt Creek - are you going to bring the Huckster to Sharon tomorrow?
terry@highfieldfarm.com
terry@highfieldfarm.com
HarveyH
Member
I'd hate to see this thread die from inactivity so I'll reenergize it by posting my story...
I've had a set of Wagon Works "Huckster Van" plans since 2008. I picked up a restorable 1930 chassis in 2009 and it is now completely rebuilt and ready for the body, which I have not yet started.
The engine has been rebuilt with a counterbalanced crankshaft, a lightened flywheel with a V-8 pressure plate, one of Jim Brierley's "B"-grind cams, a 5.5:1 Snyder head, an oil filter adapter, 12V alternator, and an FS Ignitions auto-advance distributor. These mods are not intended to boost the horsepower as much as they are to "update" Henry's design. Except for the oil filter and alternator, the engine still looks mostly stock on the outside. I intend to include a Mitchell transmission but I haven't bought it yet.
The chassis is also mostly stock but I've installed modern (tubular) shocks on all four corners.
And being in the south, I plan to install an air conditioner. (Hardly an option down here!) Since it's practically impossible to find a leakless original gas tank these days (plus, I have yet to find anyone who hasn't been disappointed with tank sealers), I intend to install a custom fuel tank between the chassis rails and mount the air conditioner blower assembly within the hollowed-out stock gas tank. The stock Model A dash panel will be retained which will preserve the cab's original interior appearance.
I've learned that White Oak is best suited for outdoor use since it doesn't discolor from moisture absorption like Red Oak does, as others have previously noted in this thread. Therefore, I plan to build my body using White Oak with a Red Oak-tinted polyurethane finish. I hope to start on the body this Winter.
One of my hobbies is building and flying radio-controlled model airplanes and this Huckster is going to be my "Wooden Flight Box".
This Huckster is not my first Model A. My first is a WWII aircraft tug based on Model A running gear. (But don't you dare call it a Doodlebug! These tugs were factory-built by the hundreds during the war.)
Harvey
I've had a set of Wagon Works "Huckster Van" plans since 2008. I picked up a restorable 1930 chassis in 2009 and it is now completely rebuilt and ready for the body, which I have not yet started.
The engine has been rebuilt with a counterbalanced crankshaft, a lightened flywheel with a V-8 pressure plate, one of Jim Brierley's "B"-grind cams, a 5.5:1 Snyder head, an oil filter adapter, 12V alternator, and an FS Ignitions auto-advance distributor. These mods are not intended to boost the horsepower as much as they are to "update" Henry's design. Except for the oil filter and alternator, the engine still looks mostly stock on the outside. I intend to include a Mitchell transmission but I haven't bought it yet.
The chassis is also mostly stock but I've installed modern (tubular) shocks on all four corners.
And being in the south, I plan to install an air conditioner. (Hardly an option down here!) Since it's practically impossible to find a leakless original gas tank these days (plus, I have yet to find anyone who hasn't been disappointed with tank sealers), I intend to install a custom fuel tank between the chassis rails and mount the air conditioner blower assembly within the hollowed-out stock gas tank. The stock Model A dash panel will be retained which will preserve the cab's original interior appearance.
I've learned that White Oak is best suited for outdoor use since it doesn't discolor from moisture absorption like Red Oak does, as others have previously noted in this thread. Therefore, I plan to build my body using White Oak with a Red Oak-tinted polyurethane finish. I hope to start on the body this Winter.
One of my hobbies is building and flying radio-controlled model airplanes and this Huckster is going to be my "Wooden Flight Box".
This Huckster is not my first Model A. My first is a WWII aircraft tug based on Model A running gear. (But don't you dare call it a Doodlebug! These tugs were factory-built by the hundreds during the war.)
Harvey
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Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
Envy of the flight line!
HarveyH
Member
HarveyH
Member
For those of you following along at home, I sent Fred an e-mail this morning asking about his rear bumper that he mentioned to another poster earlier in this thread. Fred was kind enough to respond with some high-quality pictures.
Most Hucksters that I've seen, including the Wagon Works plans, do not have a rear bumper. As much as I like the resulting "clean and uncluttered" appearance of the rear end, the harsh reality is that some kid will eventually back his Nissan into my parked Huck and splinter some wood. Not a pleasant thought!
As near as I can tell, I have two options: One is to install a "split" bumper as seen on most As. This type of rear bumper has an opening between the right and left mini-bumpers that is typically occupied by the car's spare tire or travel trunk. Unfortunately, we can't hang a tire or trunk on our Huck's tailgates/rear doors. Therefore, this type of bumper will protect the fenders but will barely protect the rear wood. Of course, there are some "filler bars" available for closing the gap between the mini-bumpers when a tire or trunk isn't mounted on a car but the resulting 3-section rear bumper looks a bit too complex.
The other option is to purchase a second front bumper and install it across the rear. This "full width" bumper will protect the entire rear very nicely but I wonder how many know-it-alls will insist on telling everyone that "Some idiot has put a front bumper on the BACK of his A"? I'm concerned that the court wouldn't approve of my response.
What to do, what to do? Your comments are solicited.
Harvey
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Fred K-OR
Well-known member
Using a front bumper is a good idea. When doing my bumper, I thought about using a front bumper but I did have the split one on hand, so that is what went on.
The reason that started me thinking about a bumper was the fact that stupid old me, backed the corner of the huckster body into my garage frame. But the idea that Harvey is a important one if you plan to park among other cars. Even if you do this, I think the split bumper would work for most problems you may run into.
Good luck Harvey!
The reason that started me thinking about a bumper was the fact that stupid old me, backed the corner of the huckster body into my garage frame. But the idea that Harvey is a important one if you plan to park among other cars. Even if you do this, I think the split bumper would work for most problems you may run into.
Good luck Harvey!
Skrain
Senior Member
Hi guys.
I just talked with the owner of Lentville bodies, and am pretty sure I am going to be buying one of his bodies in the spring to put on my chassis.
I'm thinking that I will need to replace my cowl and windshield assembly, since whoever had the car before me did some not too professional fiberglass work.
Any suggestions on which cowl/windshield assembly I should be on the lookout for, such as a closed cab pickup, or a roadster, or a Fordor?
Or, I MIGHT be able to fabricate the frame and mounting points from wood myself, since I have a neighbor who can do very good cabinetry...
I just talked with the owner of Lentville bodies, and am pretty sure I am going to be buying one of his bodies in the spring to put on my chassis.
I'm thinking that I will need to replace my cowl and windshield assembly, since whoever had the car before me did some not too professional fiberglass work.
Any suggestions on which cowl/windshield assembly I should be on the lookout for, such as a closed cab pickup, or a roadster, or a Fordor?
Or, I MIGHT be able to fabricate the frame and mounting points from wood myself, since I have a neighbor who can do very good cabinetry...
HarveyH
Member
Skrain,
Back when I bought my Huckster plans from Wagon Works in 2009, I asked Jay that very question. His answer was...
"Your best bet for a beginning is a coupe, sedan or pickup cowl so you can just make the tapered adapter post to hang your new doors on. If you use an open car cowl such as a roadster, you will have to make a complete wooden front on the body and scribe it to the cowl. This would be quite a bit more work. The only cowl you want to avoid is a slant-windshield sedan, because you need a straight vertical door/windshield post."
Hope this helps,
Harvey
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Skrain
Senior Member
Thanks.
I've been looking at the pictures on the Lentville site, and it looks like the doors are pre-hung on a wooden frame. I think if nothing else, I can modify the slightly amateur fiberglass work that was done to my cowl, and fabricate the parts I need out of wood. With a good finish and spar varnished, I'm pretty sure I can make mine work.
Also, I have a couple of places on the look-out for a decent 30/31 cowl and windshield assembly.
Lots of mistakes of the past can be rectified with a sawzall...<G>
I've been looking at the pictures on the Lentville site, and it looks like the doors are pre-hung on a wooden frame. I think if nothing else, I can modify the slightly amateur fiberglass work that was done to my cowl, and fabricate the parts I need out of wood. With a good finish and spar varnished, I'm pretty sure I can make mine work.
Also, I have a couple of places on the look-out for a decent 30/31 cowl and windshield assembly.
Lots of mistakes of the past can be rectified with a sawzall...<G>
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
I purchased a Lentville A a few years back. It is on my old 1929 pickup. I have some pictures on my sign in stuff. I also had to rebuild my cowl and get another frame for the window. You are correct, Jon does have a wooden post in front of the doors that attaches to the old front door frame post (at least it did on my 29).
Before you do a lot of work and get parts for your cowl, I would ask Jon what you need to attach his body to. This may save you a lot of work and expense that may not be needed. He may have pictures so you can get an idea what you should do.
BTW the Lentville body is a top quality made wooden Huckster body. Jon does an excellent job of building these bodies. If you like Huckster bodies, you will like the body he builds. The only thing I requested over an above what he provides, is I asked him to move the seat back a little because I am 6'2" and needed more leg room. I also asked him to make me a wider seat than the one he normally provides. My big buns were always hanging over the edge of the seat. It is a great car to haul grandkids in parades or other functions. So far I think I have won 8 or 10 awards at car shows I have attended over the last 3 years or so. So it is an attention getting machine.
Good luck with your project. If you need any questions answered, feel free to PM me.
Here is the rig:
Attachments
Jazzjr
Senior Member
Welcome HarveyH, and Skrain to the Forum and Huckster Future Owners. I built my own Body as You have Researched using White Oak, and a 1930 Sedan Cowl. It was a fun build, being that my Occupation was a Building Contractor, it was a easy build. I used the old Hudson Wagon Works Plans that Jay has bought the rights to. I used local cut White Oak. air dried and Planned it myself. A local Saw Mill will have the full 2" that you will need in some places, Total lumber costs was approximately $300 for the completed Body.
Rear bumper was no problem, I used the Sedan 2 piece rear bumper and built a frame out of 1 1/2 angle iron that attached to the main runners under the Body. If you build it your self you gain self satisfaction. If you do use a Lentville body, Have them run the grain of the wood on the Doors Horizontal, instead of Vertical. The sides of the Body runs the Grain of the Wood Horizontal, and the Doors should also, just looks out of place and wrong to Me? Good luck it what ever your choice is. I transported mine to Florida, myself in the rear of a 16 ft. Budget rental truck Nov. 16th last Year, and Drove it 1,750 miles until May 1st. Click on the Photo Below or go to My Profile for More Build Photos.
Here are some of the Finished Car and some Florida Photos.
Rear bumper was no problem, I used the Sedan 2 piece rear bumper and built a frame out of 1 1/2 angle iron that attached to the main runners under the Body. If you build it your self you gain self satisfaction. If you do use a Lentville body, Have them run the grain of the wood on the Doors Horizontal, instead of Vertical. The sides of the Body runs the Grain of the Wood Horizontal, and the Doors should also, just looks out of place and wrong to Me? Good luck it what ever your choice is. I transported mine to Florida, myself in the rear of a 16 ft. Budget rental truck Nov. 16th last Year, and Drove it 1,750 miles until May 1st. Click on the Photo Below or go to My Profile for More Build Photos.
Here are some of the Finished Car and some Florida Photos.
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nasty581ford
Junior Member
Hi, is there anything that makes a 1930-31 huckster much more valuable than another, or anything that would make on undesirable to a collector ?
HarveyH
Member
Nasty,
Hucksters were not built by Ford (Station Wagons were but not Hucksters) so they probably don't appeal to "collectors" in the sense that their value is based on their fidelity to an original model. That said, like most old cars, their value is usually based on their condition (i.e. chassis restoration and quality of paint and woodwork).
When it comes to Hucksters, the preference (increased value) for a particular year will change from buyer to buyer. You'll find that some folks prefer the earlier 28-29 cowl style and some prefer the later 30-31 style. Style aside, some folks might prefer the 1928 chassis since it is the first of the breed, and some might prefer the 1931 chassis as it will incorporate most all of the improvements made during the Model A run.
And since Hucksters don't really have a traceable lineage back to a specific Ford model, owners and builders often build their Hucksters as drivers instead of as show cars. Modern improvements such as electronic ignition, alternators, and air conditioning are often found on Hucksters and these mods will have a direct effect on the car's usefulness (value).
Therefore the value of a Model A Huckster can be tough to pin down.
Harvey
Hucksters were not built by Ford (Station Wagons were but not Hucksters) so they probably don't appeal to "collectors" in the sense that their value is based on their fidelity to an original model. That said, like most old cars, their value is usually based on their condition (i.e. chassis restoration and quality of paint and woodwork).
When it comes to Hucksters, the preference (increased value) for a particular year will change from buyer to buyer. You'll find that some folks prefer the earlier 28-29 cowl style and some prefer the later 30-31 style. Style aside, some folks might prefer the 1928 chassis since it is the first of the breed, and some might prefer the 1931 chassis as it will incorporate most all of the improvements made during the Model A run.
And since Hucksters don't really have a traceable lineage back to a specific Ford model, owners and builders often build their Hucksters as drivers instead of as show cars. Modern improvements such as electronic ignition, alternators, and air conditioning are often found on Hucksters and these mods will have a direct effect on the car's usefulness (value).
Therefore the value of a Model A Huckster can be tough to pin down.
Harvey
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nasty581ford
Junior Member
Gotcha, I did know that Ford didn't build the bodies (I did hear that they built seem, however) I just didn't know whether one built on a truck chassis might have more or less value than one built on a car chassis. And the one I'm getting does have a 12 volt alternator upgrade,and juice brakes, so that could be a plus to some and a minus to others I guess,lol! Thanks Harvey !