Model A Engine Oil Filter

ericr said:
have any of you guys ever cut open a used filter, out of curiousity, to see what debris it removed from the oil?
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I have cut it open several times. Yes, the one time I cut it open and there were little shinny flakes in there told me that Babbitt was loose and about to go. Suspect confirmed. Rods needed replacing.
 
I searched for oil filter info earlier today and could not find what I was looking for, and since this has been brought up here, I'll go ahead and ask my question here (if no one minds). Does the oil filter adapter that replaces the timing gear cover work well on a Model B engine? I know the original design did not use an oil filter, and I usually don't subscribe to adding filters to older engines, but I may want to add one to my A with a B. Anyone got an opinion on the best filter for the B engine? What am I saying.... I'm sure everyone has an opinion...

Frank
 
Yes, I know it is. Can the filter that replaces the cover for the cam gear (timing gear) be used and would it be effective in filtering the oil????
 
emf said:
Yes, I know it is. Can the filter that replaces the cover for the cam gear (timing gear) be used and would it be effective in filtering the oil????
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Nobody here gets Secrets of Speed Magazine? I'm wondering what was the last issue mailed?
 
Sorry, The Kenz cam cover Filter can be easily modified to be full flow, described in a Secrets of Speed issue. I high recommend Secrets, Brierley's Book and F.A.S.T.
Has anyone got their October 2014 Secrets of Speed issue yet? Thanks
 
I have the "Taylor" filter on mine. I modified it for full pressure oiling. I used an early Ford van with a 6 cylinder engine right angle adapter to make the filter vertical. The early adapters would also move the filter away from the block while the newer ones sold now move it towards and hitting the block. Old style P/N 957E-6884-A.
And yes, I have the October 2014 issue of Speed magazine.
 

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I don't like the look of the valve cover filter, it would be in the way of my dual updraft carbs. Babbit bearings do well without a filter. If I used insert bearings, I suppose that a partial flow system would be better than no filter. Insert bearings really need a filter .
 
I have been asked how I installed my Frantz Oil Cleaner. My mount was really simple. I cut a piece of thick wall steel tubing to fit between the mounting tabs of the Frantz. Then I removed the top bolt on the side cover of the timing gear cover on the engine. Got a longer bolt to go through the Frantz mounts and into the engine. With it mounted like this you can swivel it for any clearance issues you may find.
 
bettlesr said:
I have the "Taylor" filter on mine. I modified it for full pressure oiling. I used an early Ford van with a 6 cylinder engine right angle adapter to make the filter vertical. The early adapters would also move the filter away from the block while the newer ones sold now move it towards and hitting the block.
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Do you know if you can use the engine pans with this set up? I notice you don't have the engine pans installed. Thanks.
 
I may have to cut a hole in the engine pan. I have to weld the tabs back on where it mounts to the engine. Right side broke off when I had float-a-motor mounts on it. I still have the left pan on.
 
bettlesr said:
I have the "Taylor" filter on mine. I modified it for full pressure oiling. I used an early Ford van with a 6 cylinder engine right angle adapter to make the filter vertical. The early adapters would also move the filter away from the block while the newer ones sold now move it towards and hitting the block. Old style P/N 957E-6884-A.
And yes, I have the October 2014 issue of Speed magazine.
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So all this talk about full flow and part flow is great but exactly how do you change the original model A design so that it does not continue to flow oil up into the lifter chamber? I can only assume that the October 14 Speed mag tells how to do this. Can someone re write this for those who do not have access to the Speed magazine?
On another note the discussion of filters and the TP cleansing device use are all about micron size. A short bit of research on water filtration will give you the ideas and concepts of micron sizes and how they might relate to engine oil cleanliness.
 
Ron:
I think those who think eventually all the oil will get filtered with a non full flow filter are wrong. Here is why. If for example 50% of oil is filtered with each circuit of oil, then 50% of oil is not filtered. The next circuit will leave 50% unfiltered also and so on each time. It is the same as when you want to go from chicago to Pittsburg and you go 1/2 way. Next day you go 1/2 of remaining way & stop. Then same again and again. You will get close but you will never get 100% there. I have the one that Mikes Afordable makes & i notice my oil stays clover honey color until changed at at least 1000 miles or more. It is a full flow. You do not need the 90* adapter as a little though and care will preclude any mess during the filter change.
 
Steve - Very good analogy, I remember the same story using a different example.

Nice to know that not using a 90-degree adapter doesn't create as big a mess as one might think with the filter vertical. I am guessing when the engine is not running, that some or most of the oil drains from the filter.

Thanks,
 
If you are interested in a Franz filter you might luck out at a swap meet, so far I have bagged 4 and for cheap. I have been using them in my air compressor lines, have a regular separator at the compressor then a Franz in line. My air is dry as a bone, when done using one for painting, I take the filter apart and let it dry out, haven't replaced a TP roll yet.
 
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