Model A Emergency brake cross shaft removal

BenLeBlanc

BenLeBlanc

Member
Well, interesting situation here. I have a weird mix of years which is why I did not put it in the title. My frame and engine numbers tell me that my engine and frame were made in April 1930 ish. Trying to take my cross shaft off for cleaning, I realized that it is a 31 style. So, side question, what year is my car?

Main question here: how do you remove the shaft? I believe my brass bearings are pretty much seized to the shaft, and I have not been able to remove the pins yet, although I know I will have to. Any tricks?
 
the pins are tough to get out,slit the old bushings to remove,check shaft for major wear,if it looks pretty good install split bushings.
 
You have an April1930 car and should be titled as a 1930 Ford. In May 1930 they started the switch to the last style 30-31 instrument panel. Get a copy of the ford service bulletins for model a and the model a judging standards. Your cross shaft is the correct 30-31 style. The earlier 29 style was phased out by April.
 
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My ’31 also had a bound up emergency brake shaft. I was able to clean it up so it now works beautifully. I removed both bushing retainer plates and sanded the shaft clean inboard of both bushings. I then sprayed the shaft and bushings with penetrating oil. I tapped the shaft sideways so that one bushing now started sliding inboard onto the clean area of the shaft. This also created a gap between the other bushing and the frame rail on the opposite side. I was able to slip an open end wrench into this gap and then I repeated the tapping process on the other side of the shaft.
By patiently working back and forth and inserting more spacers, I was able to drive both bushings onto the cleaned area of the shaft and I cleaned and greased the original bearing surface. After I did this, the bushings slid back in place easily and I didn’t have to resort to removing the levers or rivets.
 
The later style of E brake shaft that goes through the frame have the ends held on by taper pins. They need to be beat out in the correct direction.

Contrary to popular belief, the original bushings were not designed to need lubrication. The ball shape bushings are not designed to be tight tolerance bushings. They are more of something to keep the shaft in place and allow the frame to flex. The steel or pot metal balls have a graphite impregnated brass/ cloth interior surface. They would have fit fairly snug to the shaft. There purpose was to allow the shaft to not bind, keep it in place and not allow for rattles.

The few E brake shafts I have seen do not have wear. My guess is you have rust on the shaft and it is possible the bushings are not bad enough where you need to replace them. But first look at them and see what you have, as I said some are pot metal and the pot metal can be bad. If they are tight on the shaft then I would guess they are not that bad. In my limited experience I found getting the pins out was not so bad once you figured out the narrow end. I would sand the shaft inboard of both bushings and then work them into the sanded area. Then you can sand the shaft to allow removing them nicely.

Remember that both brake shafts use the same bushings. Neither should be lubricated with any type of lubricant that will get hard over time or attract dirt. Keep in mind, contrary to the article, Ford did not forget a grease fitting. I loaded the good originals (I had one NOS too) I used with graphite and put them back in place. The brass ones being sold today will need a lubricant.
 
Kevin (or anyone else) can you tell me how to identify the correct direction to drive the pins out? I'm about to delve into that, tonight.
 
Brent,
See if you can lightly sand each end of the pin enough to determine which end is smaller. The smaller end is the one you want to tap on with a pin punch.
Ed
 
Hit taper pins with a brass drift. Steel punches upset and expand the pin making it harder to remove.
 
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