Model A Door Bottom Rusting

Bob V

Bob V

Member
Does anyone know how to stop Model A doors from rusting at the bottom from rain water running into the door? There are no seals to prevent water from entering between the glass and outer door skin. The doors have drain holes but water still gets in between the sheet metal folds at the bottom and on the sides and creates rust.
 
There are several rust preventatives around. Fish oil is an older style, with some modern formulas that are low odour or Lanotech is one based on lanolin. There are several aviation preventatives as well, Boshield T9, LPS3, Valvoline tectyl502. Some of the local car people around here also use ATF as well.
 
There's a variety of both petroleum & wax based sprays available which do the job well.
These products penetrate into the seams after application and block moisture from the bare metal...thereby preventing electrolysis/rust.
I've rustproofed quite a few vehicles over the last 30 years with different versions of the sprays and grown to prefer the thinner ones as you can see they definitely creep into the tightest joints and folds. This is obvious as the oil creeps out around door locks and hinges and must be wiped off the paint next day as it creeps (a good sign).
My favorite is Rustcheck. I've seen it in both hardware & autoparts stores and it's even handy to have around for assembling nuts and bolts so they don't rust at the threads, nor underneath the nut, as it breaks the paint. Rustcheck seals it so rust doesn't spread around the nut.
Great all over for modern junk.
With a Model A I would mainly use it in door and cowl bottoms.

http://www.rustchecknow.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=26&Itemid=82
 
If there was a cure all anode/cathode we would probably all know it by now but most people rely on paint or oils.
All sorts of oil mixtures can be used. Some people debate if paint should be poured into the folds or if that would inhibit the oil ingress. Creosote, something called ensis (spelling) oil? Shark liver oil. Fish oil works well but might smell for a few days (shark liver oil smells worse) paint thinners mixed with fish oil & given a second coat of undilute fish oil 24 later finished with sodium grease (any grease will do i guess), creosote works well for me but stinks terribly. Heavy oil like lucas oil stabilizer mixed with paint thinner is another alternative, not sure if it washes out over time.
i filled a door with grease once. When that grease gets moisture under it i will have to dig lots of it out to get at the rust. Moral of that story is putting a whole tub of grease in at one time might be over doing it.
 
Be sure to keep the drain holes open. While rebuilding my last few closed Model A's, I painted the inside of the doors and inside lower body with por15.
 
the tar sprayed in the inside of door at the factory was some of the best to use to prevent rust and is also a sound deadner. Still using it today.
 
seals the door skin from the water running down the inside of the door and out the drain holes in the bottom....I would call that a good rust preventive.
 
Use LPS rust inhibitor. Stops the current rust and leaves a waxy residue which inhibits new rust. Use it on all my modern vehicles. I have never had a vehicle rust where I've applied LPS. Thats saying something for Minnesota, Land of 10,000 Rust Buckets.
 
I agree LPS rust inhibitor is great for the job.
Be aware LPS makes a few other spray products, so get the right one.
I still like Rustcheck as stated.
Use some common sense before dumping anything that STINKS into your car as the stink will resurface every sunny day for years to come.
It's mind boggling what ideas people will come up with...think first before you ruin your car.
As well, traditional thick undercoating has sufficed as a sound deadener and road abrasion shield for many years, it has virtually NO rust inhibiting ability whatsoever and in fact will trap moisture as it shrinks.
Old Mercedes were a prime example when I worked in the bodyshop industry. Under all that undercoat, the entire rockers and undercarriage crumbled in your hands like a huge chocolate chip cookie when the thick undercoating was removed.
 
Craig Lewis said:
I agree LPS rust inhibitor is great for the job.
Be aware LPS makes a few other spray products, so get the right one.
I still like Rustcheck as stated.
Use some common sense before dumping anything that STINKS into your car as the stink will resurface every sunny day for years to come.
It's mind boggling what ideas people will come up with...think first before you ruin your car.
As well, traditional thick undercoating has sufficed as a sound deadener and road abrasion shield for many years, it has virtually NO rust inhibiting ability whatsoever and in fact will trap moisture as it shrinks.
Old Mercedes were a prime example when I worked in the bodyshop industry. Under all that undercoat, the entire rockers and undercarriage crumbled in your hands like a huge chocolate chip cookie when the thick undercoating was removed.
Click to expand...
LPS 3 is the rust inhibitor, the others are light lubricating oil and penetrating oils.
 
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