Model A Doodlebug Revival

RunninMan

New member
Hi everyone, I'm the proud owner of a Model A Doodlebug that has been sitting for many years and I'd like to get it running and driving again. I thought I'd ask all the experts on here for some advice before I dig in to make sure I don't accidentally do more harm than good in the process.

I inherited the Doodlebug from my grandfather when he passed away in 2002 and he likely picked it up at a swap meet many years prior. It has a wooden park bench for a seat and a single-bottom plow hanging off the back, although it's never done any actual work in my lifetime. My grandpa drove it in local parades, showed it at car and tractor shows, and brought it to the State Fair to display every year. I have many fond memories of driving around the yard with my grandpa and then my dad after we brought it home, and as I got older it was the first vehicle I really learned how to drive myself. I started driving it through parades in my hometown and tooling around the neighborhood a few times every summer.

In the summer of 2014, I drove it in a 4th of July parade in the next town over from my hometown. I drove it 6 miles on gravel to the parade in the morning when it was cooler outside with no issues, then later in the afternoon it sputtered and quit halfway through the route and wouldn't start again. It seemed to me like it was vapor locking, although I can't say for sure that's what it was. I do remember it being very hot that day. I let it cool down and sit for a while, and it fired right back up like nothing was ever wrong. I started toward home and I believe it quit again once or twice on the way back but eventually made it home. I honestly can't remember if I drove it later that summer or not to see if the problem persisted. A tale as old as time followed; I graduated high school and moved to college the following summer, worked at internships between semesters, got a job on the other side of the state after my degree, and unfortunately the Doodlebug has sat untouched in my parents' garage for the last ~12 years. At least it's been on a concrete floor and under a roof that whole time and not out in the elements. I'm now looking at moving back closer to home and have my own son to begin making memories with, so the urge to get the Doodlebug running again has been extra strong lately. For now, I'll just have to work on it occasionally when I'm back visiting my parents so it will be slow going at first, but hopefully once we move closer I can devote more consistent time to it.

I looked up the serial number of the engine once a long time ago and I'm pretty sure I remember it being a 1929. It's an original 4 cylinder Model A engine as far as I can tell. I also remember finding another serial number on the body or the frame somewhere and it didn't match the number on the engine, and I think that number might have decoded to a 1930 but I'm not as confident about that. I suppose the engine and the frame/body could have come from different vehicles. It is a bit of a Frankenstein by definition after all. It only has one transmission, not two like many other Doodlebugs I've read about. Again it seems to be the standard transmission out of a Model A based on my very limited knowledge. I also know it's been converted to 12v from the original 6v system. The radiator has always had a small leak; enough to need to check the coolant every time we drove it but not so much that it would be an issue when just driving around the neighborhood. My guess of vapor lock during the parade came from the symptoms of sputtering and choking before it died, starting and running just fine after cooling down, and the fact that the fuel line from the gas tank into the carb is uninsulated and runs right by the exhaust manifold on the way to the carb. I'm sure I was running some sort of Ethanol blend at the time which I've read can be more susceptible to vapor lock. It's also still a gravity system from the tank so there was no fuel pump to help power through any air bubbles. I'm sure there will be more that comes back to me after I get a chance to get a better look at it next time I'm down at my parents' house, but that's the gist for now.

My current plan is to drain any old gas from the tank, fuel lines, and carb, change the oil, drain/flush/refill the coolant, and maybe try to clean and adjust the carb if I think it needs it. Although I'll probably try to see if it actually runs first before I dig too far into the carb since I've heard they can be finnicky and hard to find parts for. I'd like to try to wrap the fuel lines in some sort of insulation as well. I'll also make sure to try to turn the engine over by hand first to make sure it's not stuck before I throw a new battery on there and crank the starter. Anything else I should be looking for before running it for too long? I have an engineering degree and try to do as many of my own vehicle repairs as possible so I feel like I'm up for the challenge but these old engines are a bit farther out of my wheelhouse than I'm used to.

Thanks in advance for any advice you all might have for me. I've attached the only two pictures I could find without digging through a bunch of old SD cards. They're from a parade I drove the Doodlebug in in 2011. Please excuse my crude redactions; I promise my head isn't normally that square! I'll upload more photos as I begin working on it and get it unburied from the garage.
 

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A lot of doodle bugs were made from the AA trucks since the later 30/31 types had the 4-speed trans. The frame and rear axle are heavier duty too. If it has been setting a long time, it's not a bad idea to remove the distributor and pour the first quart of your oil change down in there to prime the valve chamber. Valves like to stick after long slumbers so a basic compression check is a good idea. Parts are readily available from suppliers and Renner's Corner for some of the more rare afternarket carbs.

Heat related failures can be either vapor lock or ignition system related. Bad ignition coils or failing condensers can break down as they heat up so keep that in mind. The A&L no-blow condensers are about the best ones available for the model A distributor unless it has a modern points set conversion.

If you see where there is a hole in the radiator then there's no doubt but model A radiators can just puke out the overflow tube as well. That can depend on how well the radiator cap seals up. Finding someone to repair a radiator in this day and age can be a real challenge. Most modern radiator shops just sell new radiators.

That's quite a set of rear wheels on that thing. They look like an implement wheel. The early model AA wheels were wire but they changed over to the solids in 1930.
 
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My thoughts are that you may have 1) a plugged fuel system. The tanks love to rust up with the new fuels today. So drain and flush everything until clean. 2) a clogged or really dirty cooling system. The ideal way to clean it is to pull the head and dig around in the cooling passages with a wire and get ALL of the rust/scale out. Then flush the rad a few times. Sounds like you may need a repair as well. An engine that over heats will blow a head gasket and may contribute to ‘vapor lock’ as it just gets so hot it boils the fuel. Also put your location in so that someone near you may be able to give you a hand.

Mike
 
I want to thank you all for your great responses. Very much appreciated! My dad and I spent this past Saturday digging the Doodlebug out of the garage and working on it.

The first thing we noticed is it will definitely need two new front tires. Both had been flat for so long they were dry-rotted and split along the sidewalls. I've read good things about Coker tires and I've also been keeping my eye out on Facebook Marketplace. We'll see which option the budget allows for. The rear tires appear to be in great shape still.

First we made sure the engine wasn't stuck by putting it in 4th gear and pushing it forward which worked great since I don't have a hand crank and couldn't find a socket big enough for the crank bolt. We changed the oil and added the first quart (conventional 10w30) back through the distributor hole - thanks for the advice rotorwrench! I also drained and flushed the coolant, but did find a pretty sizeable leak in the radiator as I had remembered near the top of the fins. Since it's near the top enough coolant stayed in for our testing but it will definitely need repaired/replaced before it takes any measurable trips around the block. Finally, we drained the small amount of old gas left in the tank and fuel lines, cleaned a bunch of sediment out of the glass sediment bowl, and refilled with non-ethanol 91 octane.

When I turned the gas on at the valve, it immediately started leaking significantly out of the carburetor (Zenith-1) where it is split in the middle. I removed the bottom half of the carb to check the gasket and it appeared okay to me but the bowl was just as filthy as the sediment bowl. I cleaned that up and reinstalled it and it seems adequately tightening that main bolt holding everything together fixed the leak.

After installing a new battery the engine turned over smoothly but didn't fire. I ran all of the spark plugs under a wire brush to clean them up but they honestly didn't look too bad in the first place. I also cleaned up the points with some fine grit sandpaper. I left one plug out and turned the engine over again to confirm I had spark, which I did. It still wouldn't start after that, and after pulling one of the plugs again we noticed after all of that cranking we couldn't smell any gas in the cylinder.

I cracked open the fuel line at the carb and had good flow, so I removed the carb bowl again and it was bone dry. I removed the fuel line completely and also pulled out that little mesh screen behind it. The screen was a little dirty but not too bad, however it did look like the fuel line was pressing the screen into the back side of the carb which didn't seem correct to me. I actually ended up leaving that screen out and will probably add a Wix 33003 upstream closer to the gas tank so I can keep a closer eye on the quality of the gas going in to the carb. I still wasn't getting fuel into the bowl so I pulled the float valve and that ended up being the culprit. It appears to be a Grose Jet style and the smaller ball bearing was stuck in the seat. We worked it free as best we could but it would still stick from time to time so I think it needs a good soak overnight in some carb cleaner or just a replacement. I'm now wondering if that was my original problem all those years ago rather than vapor locking.

I filled the bowl with the gas can before putting everything back together and it finally fired. It idled long enough to use up the fuel in the bowl but the float valve was stuck again. We eventually got the idle tuned in pretty well and it ran just enough to drive it forward back in to the garage but any time I tried to push the gas pedal too much it choked out and died. I'm assuming at this point the carb just needs a good deep clean. I'm definitely going to order a gasket kit for it and possibly just an entire rebuild kit from somewhere like Renner's.

I do have a bit of an ignition gremlin to chase down as it would randomly lose spark. I didn't have a multimeter with me to test the coil, but I'm suspicious it could be the aftermarket, but still really old, push-pull type master power switch on the dash. At one point with the engine off I flipped the light switch on with the master power switch on but had no headlights. I toggled the master power switch once and the lights came right back on. I'll probably order a new set of points and condenser as well just to be safe because I know they haven't been replaced since I've owned it but I need to do a little more research on what's actually on there now.

I looked up the serial number on the engine and the manufacture date was March 20, 1930. I didn't think to look for a serial number on the frame or the rear axle to see if they match the engine or what vehicle they may have come from originally but that's on my list for next time. Rotorwrench - I hadn't ever considered where the rear wheels may have come from but you got me interested in finding out! I did some reverse image searching on Google and I did get a lot of results for early John Deere tractors as ModelA29 suggested. I also found one listing for a set of wheels from a Fordson N that looked like a close match. My account on this site isn't old enough to post links but if you copy the following into a Google search you should find the same listing: "fordson-tractor-wheels-tires-13-24-16-1865204877". Additionally, there is a toolbox mounted to the frame on the passenger side in front of the firewall with Fordson stamped into the lid, so I'm wondering if a Fordson was the original tractor half of this Doodlebug. Again I suppose a closer look at any markings on the rear end might shed some more light on this.

Somehow I neglected to take any good pictures of the tractor when it was out in the daylight, so I guess that's on my list for next time as well. In the meantime I have attached a closer look at the rear wheels, Fordson toolbox, and the park bench rear seat with the single-bottom plow attached. I also took a short video of the first time it fired but again I can't attach a video directly to this post and can't post a link so I'll either have to post it later or if anyone's interested you can message me and I can send it to you directly.

Thanks again for all of your advice and suggestions; I'm sure I'll have more questions as I continue working on getting the Doodlebug back to it's former glory. I had a ton of fun making memories working on it with my dad all day and hope to do the same with my son someday!
 

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It's been a few weeks since I last worked on the Doodlebug but since the last time I posted I replaced the points and condenser and that seems to have eliminated the ignition issue I was having. I also took apart the carb and gave it a good deep clean - it needed it badly. Some of the jets/tubes were completely clogged. I got the float valve moving freely again and after putting everything all back together it was able to consistently run off of the fuel in the tank. However I still have an issue where it starts and idles just fine for a few seconds, but then starts to run rough at idle unless I give it some gas to smooth it out. Messing with the idle air screw on the carb doesn't seem to do anything, which makes me think either the carb is still gummed up somewhere or I have a vacuum leak somewhere else. I think I can hear a faint exhaust/intake manifold leak near the rear of the engine if I listen close enough. I'll try spraying some carb cleaner in the area while it's running to confirm if there's a leak or not. I think I'll also go ahead and order a carb rebuild kit just to be safe after seeing how much junk I had to clean out of there. I did my best to get the timing set back properly after I changed the points and condenser but I suppose that could be part of it as well seeing as I've never done it before. It will be a few weeks before I can get back to working on it again but I feel like I'm making good progress.

I noticed there is a governor bolted to the timing cover and after some Googling it appears this was probably common on tractor conversions. However, the linkage arm where the governor is supposed to connect to the throttle is broken off at the red line on the attached image (I forgot to take a picture of my governor but the one in the picture is identical). Instead, the throttle is connected to the lever on the steering column like it would be on a normal Model A. Would the governor being disconnected from the throttle, but still connected to the timing gear, affect the engine performance at all or is it okay to leave it as-is? It's been this way since I've owned it so I'm guessing it's fine but I also don't want to unknowingly be doing any damage to the engine.
 

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The governor, if it's like most throttle governors, usually has flyweights that link with the control bellcrank to add throttle as the engine slows under load. If it's disconnected then the control is paused. Just make certain it still has lubrication and it should be OK. Throttle will just be manually controlled.
 
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