Model A cracked block

If you decide to weld, don't. Instead, TIG silicon braze it. TIG Brazing is much lower temp, and much better chance of success. If that is indeed rust through, and not a crack, then a bolt over patch may be the only answer, but I'd stick with small hold own bolts, maybe 1/4", and use JB weld as gasket sealer, then smear it over the whole thing when done as leak prevention. Must be super clean when using JB weld.

I have a tractor that that I bought with a 3" hole in the side of the block that I welded in a sheet metal patch about 25 years ago using nirod stick arc. That was the fix back then, but it didn't work well. Cracked all around the weld as I went, so I JB bonded over everything, basically filling the cracks with it. Been running for 25 years without leaking at all, so that can work.

Only let a truly talented and experienced welder work on it!

Just my opinion, nothing more...
 
If like you say the numbers don’t match, don’t walk away . Run very fast or marry a woman with lots of money! You’ll very likely need it!
 
31atheway said:
Can’t ignore power train much longer. :-) .. I am leaning toward another block but will dig into this one a bit further .. this is my first restore so learning as I go., have ‘how to’ books which are helpful, but as dad used to say .. no substitute for experience Thank you all for you responses
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Patching this one would cost less than $20 and if it runs, then you have an engine while you build up another engine to replace it in the future.
Engines don't grow on trees anymore.
 
johnneilson said:
Pete,
do you know what alloy rod was used?

J
Click to expand...

Yes, ER70.

TO ALL OF THE OTHER PEOPLE. Have you ever heard of modern technology like ultrasonic thickness gauges????
It will tell you the thickness of the metal surrounding the area to be patched and in some cases (depending on the cost of the gauge), the condition of it. This determines the size of the patch. You can't weld to rust and scale.
And yes, I am aware of low temperature TIG welding with bronze alloy rods. It works sometimes but if the cast iron is extremely dirty or had oil embedded in it, that type of filler rod tends to bubble and then you have to go back over the area a second or third time.

A pinned in patch will work good, IF, the surrounding area is thick enough to hold the screws. I have "stitched" patches a foot across into the crankcases of D9 Cat engines several times and they are still running 25 years later.
We didn't have the welding technology back then but that would have worked also.
 
From reading your first post, I’m guessing you’ve never driven this engine? I’m looking at the valves, and they are completely flat on the block, which means they’re wore out. You should push the crank front and back and see how much play is in the crank. Also look at how many shims are left in your bearings if any. I’m thinking that this block is just wore out. You could probably seal that hole and use it for an ice cream getter, if that’s all you’re going to do, but if you want to car that you can drive somewhere, You’re going to have to get a better engine or rebuild an engine. It isn’t cheap
 
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