Model A 1930 brake adjustment

B

Billybob57

Member
I'm confused as to the proper way to adjust the brakes. Below are the two methods I've found;

*Paul Shimm and Diablo DVD version-

Adjust all 4 wheel brake adjusters until there is a slight drag. Then back off 2 to 3 clicks.

Then install the board on the brake pedal at the 1st notch. Go around and adjust the brake shaft turnbuckle for a slight drag at each wheel. Then with the board at the 2nd notch adjust the brake shaft turnbuckles for a hard drag at each wheel. Then with the board at the 3rd notch adjust the brake shaft turnbuckles so all 4 wheels are locked. Then install all cotter pins.

*Les Andrew's Red Book-

Adjust all 4 wheel brake adjusters until there is a slight drag. Then back off 2 to 3 clicks.

Pull the brake rods forward to take up all free travel without activating the brakes. Adjust the clevis on the brake rod until the hole in the clevis lines up with the holes allowing the clevis pins to be inserted. Then install all cotter pins

Then install the board on the brake pedal at the 1st notch turn the brake adjusters so there is a slight drag at all 4 wheels. Then with the board at the 2nd notch turn the brake adjusters so there is a hard drag at each wheel. Then with the board at the 3rd notch, turn the brake adjusters so all 4 wheels are locked up.

Why the difference in procedures and which do you recommend?
 
I have used Les Andrew's method in the garage and then applied the brakes on sand and re-adjusted.
Last weekend I tried Paul's but haven't tested yet.
 
There are a few more ways to do a minor adjustment. I would tell you but that would just give more to worry over. Use the method you want to use. I don't use any board. I adjust per an old Grey Rock manual.
 
I just went through this a couple weeks ago. Shinn's video and the red book are both good. I basically followed the red book and it worked out very well. After test driving about a mile, I felt each drums with my hand for heat. Then adjusted the wedges so they felt about the same on both sides. I did this a couple times to get it right. Its stops straight and much better than before.
 
Ford said not to adjust the lengths of the rods. This assumes that the rods were not changed in the past. The rods should be checked to see if the proper angle is at the levers front and back. It is 15 degrees in front and I am not sure what it is in back but probably a little aft of vertical. Adjust for the drag in front first and if the brakes cannot be adjusted for drag then add a pellet or two (the spacer pills available from the vendors). Then adjust the rears for drag. Back off 2 clicks all around.

You can use the boards to get an idea of how they will respond when the brakes are applied and the particulars are not all that important. But the real test in in the driving.

Then take the car out for a test drive. The pedal should be firm and not spongy. If spongy it indicates that not all the brakes are being activated at the same time. The car should stop on dry asphalt within 25 feet at 20 miles per hour when you push all the way down on the pedal. You should get uniform black marks on the pavement from both rear tires. The car should not pull to either side. If the car pulls then back off the front brake one click on that side and try again. If one of the rear tire is not leaving a black mark tighten up that brake by one click and try again but not so much that you get a lot of drag there. Keep testing until you get good braking. If you cannot eliminate the pull to the side with loosening the brake on the side that is pulling with several clicks then try tightening up the other side but not until you get lots of drag. This is a trial and error effort.

Then take the car out for a normal drive where you use the brakes. Measure the temperature of the drums with an IR thermometer. They should be within 20 degrees side to side with the rears slightly higher. Not more than 120 degrees with normal use of the brakes.

The brakes may take a while to settle in, especially if you have done work on them. After a month or so do redo the driving test. This all assumes that the brakes are in good shape. If you cannot get the car to stop properly then you may need to work on the brakes.
 
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I also use the board, but, differently than stated.

I also adjust the length of the brake rods to get proper angle and remove slack.

They should be able to lock up at 35mph.
 
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