Mobil 1 Synthetic Oils

C

Colonel Biggs

Senior Member
Do synthetic oils in the Model "A" add much from a lubrication perspective, or are the standard motor oils equally as effective? I have been restoring a '68 bug for my daughter, and the respondents there say to avoid the synthetics (bug engines are air-cooled). These folks have worked in VW shops, and they recommend staying with the standard 30W oils. They also recommend adding zinc additives at oil changes.
 
Model A - Synthetic is ok but IMHO it adds only cost to the change. Any 30W is ok in the low RPM A. Zinc isn't necessary since it's mainly to protect the cam and the A has such low valve spring pressure cam wear isn't a factor. (I don't think oils had zinc until the 40s) - In my VWs (some at about 100hp in dune buggies) I always used Aero Shell 80 - it's really 40 weight but formulated specifically for air cooled engines. Synthetic would also be fine in a VW heat is what kills oil and synthetics are more resistant to heat damage than dino oils.
 
ModelA29 is correct with his facts.

I was a dealer for Amsoil products many years ago and we were exposed to extensive training about lubricants of all types for use in all types of engines, transmissions, and axles. Synthetic oils overall have unique lubricating qualities due to their inherent superior film strength and resistance to thermal breakdown (heat). But...most of our beloved Model A's don't have an adequate oil filtering system, if they have one at all, and that necessitates frequent oil changes not to mention the fact that most of them suffer from chronic leaks which renders the cost of oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc. too expensive to be practical.
 
I only use synthetics in everything. Lawn tractor old cars new cars reg mower.


Synthetics break down far less then reg oil. so I would much rather have synthetic then reg oil.


as far as cost, they are almost equal at this point. I will run synthetics at least 2x as long as I would run reg motor oil. Not many people today are running their model As down dirt roads all day long. I wouldnt even consider chging my oil at 500 miles let alone 2000. my opinion is worth 2 cents...........


reg oil in a normal car is black at 3k. I have had synthetics barely broken in at 10k. (light honey color)
 
Full synthetic oil was tested in air cooled aircraft engines and it didn't work out well. Blends can work in some situations but it is too much of a risk in hard working engines such as the light helicopters. The engines would fail before reaching TBO.

Synthetics are specifically required in turbine engines since they have high speed bearings and synthetics don't burn easily. Liquid cooled engines seem to work OK with Synthetics or semi-synthetic blends such as high mileage motor oil. It's getting harder to find full mineral based oils but they are still out there for the time being. There may come a time when they are no longer available.
 
FWIW, I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, including two Model A's. My experience has been good, but it is not a laboratory test. It may be too sophisticated for them. It's personal preference. Any good quality oil will work fine. We don't drive these cars enough for it to make much difference, in my view.
 
I think a full synthetic might be a little overkill on the A but it won't do any harm so if you like it use it
Definitely as stated above don't use it in an air-cooled engine. Seen many a dead VW because of it. Full synthetic rejects heat, but in like a VW you need the oil to carry that heat out of the cylinder head area.
They say their air cooled but they really oil cooled, which engine runs longer the one without the fan or the one without the oil :eek:
 
Ive read more then a few threads on using synthetic in old vw bugs.


apparently it isnt a problem. just old guys quoting what they think they know from 30 yrs ago.........


always the doubters who never took a science course in their lives.
 
Many thanks for the posts. I am going to stick with Mobil 1 in the "A," but based on the low miles that I have been putting on the car, cost shouldn't be a factor.

I will continue to use 30-weight in the bug (it's a '67). I had a '60 bug when I was in the military back then, but having to re-learn the mechanics really makes me feel old.
 
ronn said:
Ive read more then a few threads on using synthetic in old vw bugs.


apparently it isnt a problem. just old guys quoting what they think they know from 30 yrs ago.........


always the doubters who never took a science course in their lives.
Click to expand...

Instead of just reading the internet threads to become an expert how about actual experience ?
 
My sister had a bug, back in the day, and it would seize up at the drop of a hat. I doubt anyone paid for synthetic.

My cousin had a beach buggy with a rope start on an extra pulley on the generator. It wasn't that particular about the sump oil it consumed from a 44 gallon drum. It never seized up.
 
Instead of just reading the internet threads to become an expert how about actual experience ?





I did give my experience, why we're discussing Bugs and helicopters, I have no idea.......... Thought this site was for model As.
 
The NRMA here, the National Roads and Motorists Association, says "Mineral oils are still used by operators of classic and vintage cars, partly because the decreased viscosity (how thick or thin the oil is at a certain temperature) of synthetic oils increases the likelihood of leaks in older engines". I guess they have some real world experience.

A Model A will run on whatever you feed it. A Russian winter may be cause for concern. I'd swap to synthetic then.
 
I use racing motor oil in my Burtz engine. The breakin is taking a long time which indicates to me that the oil is retarding wear.

In the 60's I would just buy the lowest cost oil in gallon containers for my Model A. The containers, being made of metal, could be cut out on the side and wired under the engine to catch all the oil dripping out. The oil could then be poured back into the engine. Good engines were free back then so when the engine wore out a good one was just put into the car. The cheap oils had a distinctive smell and I would get a lot of that from all the blowby. I would never do that today.

I just bought a quart of 70 weight motor oil to mix with white gas (Colman fuel) at 4 to 1 gas to oil for my antique model airplane engine.
 
Read Richard Widman’s study “choosing the right oil for Chevrolet Corvair”. Will help you understand oil.
 
hazelhoff said:
Read Richard Widman’s study “choosing the right oil for Chevrolet Corvair”. Will help you understand oil.
Click to expand...
Just a snippet:

>>26. Don’t believe the myth that you can break in a rebuilt engine with synthetic oils. The
argument that new cars come with synthetics so you can break in a rebuilt engine is
totally false. None of us has the same work conditions, torque wrench calibrations or
parts that the factory has. Use high quality mineral oil until the consumption stops; then
switch to synthetic if you want maximum protection. Note: The use of Chrome or
Moly rings in your rebuild will extend the break-in period. Don’t switch over to
synthetics until oil consumption has (basically) stopped.
>>27. After rebuilding an engine, your first oil and filter change should be before 1000 miles,
preferably by 500 or less. During this time you are creating a more round bearing
chamber to avoid aeration, seating the rings, and cleaning out the dust and other
products you added while rebuilding (unless you have a “clean room” to assemble your
engine).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top