If you remove the GAV "bushing" from the carburetor, you'll notice "fingers" on the inboard end which along with the encircling wire clip, serve as "resistance" to the turning of the GAV.
Picture here.
Modern GAV bushing/housings tend to be a little "irregular" in action. Some don't sufficiently interfere with the GAV needle, others "over-interfere" and impede free adjustment of the needle. Sounds like you had both issues.
One remedy to "difficult to move" is to remove the wire clip. Another is to remove the wire clip, carefully "bend" the fingers outward which can be handily and equally done by use of an ice-pick. The wire clip can be bent similarly and reassembled, or left off.
You may in your adjustments "break off" one of the fingers. I have this on one of my carburetors and even with only three fingers and the wire clip, it now works fine for its purpose.
An older GAV bushing and needle may be "relaxed" over time giving the no-resistance case where the carburetor in time moves to the "wide open" or "fully shut position.
And I have done an adjustment by removing the wire clip and simply choosing a small rubber O-ring of sufficient tension. I used Buna-N because its what I had available, but Viton would be the O-ring of choice now with the alcohol laden gasoline today.
This a case where parts are what we are given by the vendors mostly, and a case where even original parts may no longer be ideal. You have to learn to deal with the issue however best.
Of historical note, Ford recognized the problem and for the Model B carburetor, chose an entirely different friction system for the GAV needle, consisting of a washer and a spring which bears up against a shoulder on the GAV needle. Simple can be REAL simple if one lets it.
Joe K
