Mitchell Hub Puller *Pictures*

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BashawT

Senior Member
Hey everyone!

I got my Mitchell Hub Puller yesterday and I thought I'd share some pictures with everyone. There's no pictures on the forum so I figured I'd post some so people looking for a puller can consider this one. The puller is made really solid and I am really happy with the way it performed. I was happy to spend $80.00 on this one over the $160.00 K.R. Wilson puller. Sue from Mitchell was very nice and got my order shipped fast. I followed the simple directions included and with one WAP from a hammer the hub popped loose.

I would recommend this puller to anyone. GREAT QUALITY, GREAT BUY!

ENJOY!
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Looks like it would work, just fine. I know there's a lot of force to put on the hub so it will pop. We just did ours last week, with a different style puller.
 
Doesn't seem to be any annoying pads on the eband. I have used the Mitchell tool and like it as well.
 
They now have a pinion puller for about the same price. Looks to be the same quality, but I haven't used it yet -- next week!
 
BashawT said:
You can do both the attachment for the other style is included! :)
Click to expand...

Looks very well made for the job! Wow, two in one for $60..what a deal! Thanks for sharing this;)
Ooops...$80...still sounds good , for a quality tool,eh!
 
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In the next issue of the Model A Times we did an article regarding the puller, it will work on both style hubs and works well.
 
Thanks for the great pictorial. I have often wondered about that style puller. I now would have confidence in that type.
 
I bought one several years ago from Mitchell. It works very well. The pieces are small and fit neatly into a box provided by Mitchell that is easy and painless to carry with you on tours. The tool can be configured to pull a drum that has the ridge or re-configured to pull the other style that has the valley.

I spoke with Steve Mitchell at the recent CCRG in Bakersfield. Mitchell has had a pinion puller on the market for many years that will pull the drive shaft assembly without disturbing the two large nuts that retain the pr-load on the pinion. This is used when installing a Mitchell overdrive when you don't want to tear the whole rear axle assembly apart. The tool is expensive, but they will rent it to you for a small fee when installing one of their overdrives. The new tool they are coming out with is much less expensive, but requires that you remove the large forward nut. This will disturb the pre-load if one is actually still there. You will then be required to re-set it unless you are doing a complete disassembly of the rear axle assembly.

Tom Endy
 
CarlG said:
They now have a pinion puller for about the same price. Looks to be the same quality, but I haven't used it yet -- next week!
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You sure about that? I have pestered them for years trying to buy one but they have repeatedly told me they are too expensive to sell and will not be selling them. However they will loan you one to install your overdrive. Hope you are correct!
 
Go you hit the center stud with a hammer to pop it off or do you just tighten the two bolts to pull it off?

Mike
 
CarlG said:
They now have a pinion puller for about the same price. Looks to be the same quality, but I haven't used it yet -- next week!
Click to expand...

Rich in Tucson said:
You sure about that? I have pestered them for years trying to buy one but they have repeatedly told me they are too expensive to sell and will not be selling them. However they will loan you one to install your overdrive. Hope you are correct!
Click to expand...

Tom Endy said:
...The new tool they are coming out with is much less expensive, but requires that you remove the large forward nut. This will disturb the pre-load if one is actually still there. You will then be required to re-set it unless you are doing a complete disassembly of the rear axle assembly...
Click to expand...

I actually received one of the "new" pinion pullers a couple of weeks ago. They are still working on getting the instructions down pat, but I did receive an advanced copy of those last week. Next week I will try it out!

Tom, I've read thru their instructions several times and am not sure what all you are referring to above. This will be my first time to do this, and I really don't want to screw things up! Their instructions do refer to retaining the bearing preload unless you are replacing the bearings.
 
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The pre-load on the two pinion bearings is established and maintained by the two large nuts on the pinion gear. The nominal pre-load pressure on the bearing should be 20 inch pounds as read on a dial indicator torque wrench. If you remove the outer nut you disturbe the pre-load setting.

Go to www.ocmafc.com. On the left menu scroll to "tech articles" and click. A new menu will appear. At the top is my name, click on it and a menu of my articles will come up. Scroll to the one on differential rebuilding and click. The article should answer any of your questions. You can download the article and print it out.

Tom Endy
 
1930artdeco said:
Go you hit the center stud with a hammer to pop it off or do you just tighten the two bolts to pull it off?

Mike
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You hit the center stud. When it popped loose I tightened the bolts to pull it out as far as it could and then took a pry bar and carefully slid it out.
 
Tom,
Thanks for the link. I'll be going thru that with a fine tooth comb before I start pulling things apart, that's for sure.
 
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