Mismatched drums won't fit

The big end of the cylinder should point to the back. This would mean swapping cylinders left to right.
The long shoe should also be installed on the back. Mart.

Isn't that backwards Mart, Large cylinder and longer shoe to the front? Or our we reversing the way the brakes work? What about the emergency brake cable? Guess I need to read the articles!!!
 
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Isn't that backwards Mart, Large cylinder and longer shoe to the front?

Yes, normally. but think of the shoes as primary and secondary.

But this application is upside down. The primary show (normally long and at the front) is at the back. The secondary shoe (the short one, normally at the back) is now at the front.

The big end of the cylinder needs to push on the primary shoe, which is now at the back.

Mart.
 
Yep, broke down and read the reference articles. And, they are reversing the primary and secondary. And, it does require the relocation of the wheel cylinder. From what I read, seems like there are a lot easier ways to go about this. Mart, see you were talking about this back in 2006!

Sure seems a lot easier and cleaner to just re-clock the backing plate.
 

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It's obvious after reading all of the possible scenarios in the links above (and surely there are MORE iterations to consider), there's more to this 'time-tested' modification than first meets the eye. But the method of re-clocking shown below seems to leave most, if not all of the original "physics" of the beast in play, while still accommodating the interference of that pesky ol' Model "A" springy/shocky thingie. DD

441356
 
I found it easier to clock the backing plate on a model A moving the wheel cylinder towards the rear of the car. Easier getting to the bleaders. Basically clocking it 1 full hole. Use a front spindle and a transfer punch to locate the 4 holes to drill and weld up the orginal 4
 
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