Milling Head/High Compression????

B

Banky

Senior Member
Hi all,

Question: Can I have my stock head milled down to increase the compression? If so, does anyone know the amount that would need removed to get the compression to 5 - 5.5?

Has anyone done this, good or bad idea?

thanks!
 
Can't be done. You'd have to mill into the coolant chamber to make much difference. Best to just buy the Snyder's 5.5 head.
 
I second this...the Snyder head works great, and you will get the most bang for your buck in terms of some extra power, plus retaining a stock looking head. Just be sure to use the recommended gasket and torque correctly.
 
Just for sheets and giggles! Has anyone ever tried filling the pockets in the Comb. Chamber with weld? If so, how did work? If not weld, How about a big headed bolt? You could drill and tap it, Spot face the surface. Then torque it in. The head of the bolt would have to be reworked for shape and positioned carefully? Ahhh I was jist thinking! I never heard of anyone doing this and I have wondered about for a long time.
Terry
 
Hey guys, I'm about to do just that! Mill the head! I will use my friend's Bridgeport and have the head surfaced later. Cost - minimal, gain - minimal too. My question is, what's the maximum I can take off and still leave stock on for grinding? I was thinking about .040
Terry
 
Terry said:
Just for sheets and giggles! Has anyone ever tried filling the pockets in the Comb. Chamber with weld? If so, how did work? If not weld, How about a big headed bolt? You could drill and tap it, Spot face the surface. Then torque it in. The head of the bolt would have to be reworked for shape and positioned carefully? Ahhh I was jist thinking! I never heard of anyone doing this and I have wondered about for a long time.
Terry
Click to expand...

It's not really practical to weld up an iron head, but, it is possible.
It would need to be torch/furnace welded.
We weld up aluminum heads quite often to get 11 to 1 compression for race engines. We wire feed weld them.
 
You could weld pads to top of pistons too. But! It all gets quite complicated because you have altered combustion chamber shape which could make flow and burning of fuel inefficeint.
 
Terry said:
Hey guys, I'm about to do just that! Mill the head! I will use my friend's Bridgeport and have the head surfaced later. Cost - minimal, gain - minimal too. My question is, what's the maximum I can take off and still leave stock on for grinding? I was thinking about .040
Terry
Click to expand...
Terry,
In high school, in '54, I had my '29 head milled .075" Seemed to run peppier,:D but maybe I was jist braggin' to my buddies???:confused: Bill W. (Like my friend said, "My stock lookin' '38 Flathead has a chopped flywheel & it's BALANCED!!") Everyone said, "SHOW US!!" Bill W.
 
Yeah! That's what I'm talking about. Just how complicated does it get?
Terry



Frank Miller said:
You could weld pads to top of pistons too. But! It all gets quite complicated because you have altered combustion chamber shape which could make flow and burning of fuel inefficeint.
Click to expand...
 
Pete. LeRoy told me several times about welding up flat head heads when he used to race back in the Dakotas in the sixties. He did it in a fire pit, and then covered it up and let it cool over several days. How much it increased compression, I don't know. Maybe the rules wouldn't let them use non factory heads. Chuck
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
Pete. LeRoy told me several times about welding up flat head heads when he used to race back in the Dakotas in the sixties. He did it in a fire pit, and then covered it up and let it cool over several days. How much it increased compression, I don't know. Maybe the rules wouldn't let them use non factory heads. Chuck
Click to expand...

That would be equivalent to our modern heat in furnace and torch weld with cast iron rod and flux.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top