Metal trunk restoration

Lona

Well-known member
Attached are some photos of a restoration of an old metal trunk which might be of interest to those contemplating doing one. All the old dents and deep scratches need to first be filled with bondo or they will show through the leather vinyl material. I used most of a 5 lb can and a lot of elbow grease to get everything straight.

I then covered it with the leather vinyl using 3M spray contact glue. This product worked well on the flat surfaces but was not strong enough at the rear edges where the wind peeled it back. Some brush-on contact solved that problem.

The edging is real leather, the pliable kind which forms well when soaked in warm water. Restoring the Model A trunk in the background is on my to-do list during the next month or so.

Glen
 

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Glen; I built one out of wood. Any tips on applying the vinyl leather like material? I have 3M 20 aerosol spray contact cement
 

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"I used most of a 5 lb can and a lot of elbow grease to get everything straight. "
Wow, that's a lot of bog. Wouldn't you have been better to remove the dents before burying it in bog? The finish doesn't have to be very good when it is covered like this. 40 grit paper is plenty good enough for the scratches to not show through the covering.
 
Brian,
Nice wood trunk you built yourself. As mentioned, the 3M should work so long as there is good coverage on both surfaces and allowed to dry to the touch before bonding. When finished and mounted on the car at speed, the wind coming around the rear of the car started to peel the vinyl off the back of the trunk. Retacking the edges with brush on contact glue I got specifically for use with vinyl resolved the problem. Also used the same vinyl glue for the leather.....don't feel the 3M is strong enough for that. What do you plan to do with the edges of your trunk where the vinyl won't wrap without bunching up?

Synchro,
As for the large amount of Bondo, my problem was a number of gouges, dents and flat sections that would oil can. If pressed outward to the original trunk shape, the front and rear panels would pop back into a large sunken section again. Heat shrinking those areas might have stopped the problem but I'm not a body sheet metal man. Thus, filling those large depressed areas let the metal sink in as it wanted to but the Bondo filled the depressions. It is correct that 40 grit would have been OK but small scratches weren't my problem. I wanted to paint it black like many of the original trunks but not having the expertise to get if perfect for paint, I chose to cover it with the vinyl to hide the imperfections.

Glen
 
Also used the same vinyl glue for the leather.....don't feel the 3M is strong enough for that. What do you plan to do with the edges of your trunk where the vinyl won't wrap without bunching up?

Glen; I plan to use leather strips (2" wide) and use 1" spaced upholstery nails.

Thank You
 
Aerosol glue is only good for kids making paper objects at school.

Aersol crap is thinned down so much to get it out of the nozzle, it is about as good as a flour and water mix.

Best is to get a pressure gun like an old obsolete spray putty gun and buy some real glue off a motor tirmmer.

Second best is the buy a tin of industrial stength contact glue and use a brush.
 
Brian,


Synchro,
As for the large amount of Bondo, my problem was a number of gouges, dents and flat sections that would oil can. If pressed outward to the original trunk shape, the front and rear panels would pop back into a large sunken section again. Heat shrinking those areas might have stopped the problem but I'm not a body sheet metal man. Thus, filling those large depressed areas let the metal sink in as it wanted to but the Bondo filled the depressions. It is correct that 40 grit would have been OK but small scratches weren't my problem. I wanted to paint it black like many of the original trunks but not having the expertise to get if perfect for paint, I chose to cover it with the vinyl to hide the imperfections.

Glen
Lona, if the flat areas oil canned, filling them with bog isn't what I would do. If the oil can area were to be pressed again after the bog was applied, as is likely with use, it is likely that it will pop off the surface eventually. Good luck with it anyway.
 
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