Mercury rebuilt EAC longblock-whats it worth?

markdtn

markdtn

Senior Member
Have a friend who came into this Mercury EAC longblock over the weekend. Apparently the guy who he got it from is liquidating a lifetime of parts. From what I understand, it is a Ford reman. It has been stored well/dry. Not locked up. Any idea on value? Thank you.
 

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Pressed him for a few more details. The tag says it is 40 over on the bore and 20/20 on the crank. Also not a Ford reman, it is a National something or other out of Atlanta, GA. He does not know how old it is. Does turn. Has a new oil pump with it, but no front cover or oil pan.
 
Good question: If a genuine Ford reman. it wouldn't be done if not a good core. So the
reman was back in the day likely from the 1960s or early 70s. Now and here a good
block thermo cleaned , re bore, crank, polish or a grind, all valves seals gaskets
oil pump comes to around $1100 and thats our wholesale parts price. no water pumps or
distributor. Labor I'm retired so 20 25 bucks gives me something to do that I like to do. So my price around $1500 because I don't charge list price on parts just shipping. So
now you have my garentee and none with your friends engine. So, If I put todays labor
shop time you will be up to around high 2 to 3000 $ for a new fresh engine, but a fresh
50 yr old or older fresh engine never fired still will need seals gaskets from age.
He could get bucks if he finished it then on a test stand Here it , & hear it run . Then
sold............sam
 
I agree about getting it running. Engines like this seem to be coming out of the storage lately. It's so hard to say it's worth. To do one right, you are looking at $4-$5K for stock and a lot more if hi-po.

Yet, a motor like this would bring around $1K as it sits. Without it running, it really is a pig in a poke and the buyer is taking a chance that it could be no good.
 
I would measure the stroke to verify it has a Merc crank in it which would make it more desirable.
 
I am near Chattanooga and if he wishes to sell it I would be interested.
Easy way to see if it is a mercury crank is to see if it has the 5/8" or 3/8" clean out plugs in the crank. The larger is "typically" mercury.
 
Assembled 8BA blocks can be pressure tested; I made this gizmo to do just that. I have done it successfully on 3 blocks. You either use the black cap to cap the water pump outlets if the pump is on the car or the larger plate to block them if the have been removed (or if they leak). The smaller plate with the gauge is put on the thermostat housing mount on the head and a small amount of air pressure is induced using the schrader valve.

It may not tell you a block is definitely good, but it will cull the bad leakers. Good water pump seals will usually hold the 5-10 lbs pressure I usually use; if they won't, they need to be replaced anyway.
 

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I am primarily interested in testing bare blocks. I probably have 12 or so junk waterpumps here. Could I just remove the shafts and make a gasket from epdm rubber roofing and bolt them on? Will the same type pump work for 8ba and the 59a style?. In the same vein, a cyl head with an epdm gasket having only the bolt holes? Hope this isn't a hijack. Always looking for shade tree solutions, and speedway doesn't even offer the kit anymore.
 
Gary.....you would have to seal the head bolt or nut with some type of rubber washer under a steel washer. Same with the pumps. Any where air can leak (unless you find a crack) has to be air tight to have an accurate test...... how are things under that shade tree??......Mark
 
GB SISSON said:
I am primarily interested in testing bare blocks. I probably have 12 or so junk waterpumps here. Could I just remove the shafts and make a gasket from epdm rubber roofing and bolt them on? Will the same type pump work for 8ba and the 59a style?. In the same vein, a cyl head with an epdm gasket having only the bolt holes? Hope this isn't a hijack. Always looking for shade tree solutions, and speedway doesn't even offer the kit anymore.
Click to expand...

I tried it in a similar manor but used head gaskets. It would pressure for less than an hour. Soapy water showed leaks around head and water pumps. Put heavy rubber in place of pump gaskets and copper coated head gaskets ( ruined gaskets ). Was able to hold pressure now for 2 hours. Could not completely seal heads. I used 20 psi and applied soapy water all over including in all the ports and could not find any leaks. Was this 100 percent perfect, no but I feel more confident than I was.
 
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