Merc. crank in 59 engine

Sid

Sid

Well-known member
If putting a Merc. crank in a 59 flathead will the crank pulley from the stock 59 engine fit the Merc. crank? Will the 59 front pulley fit any 8BA engine?
 
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The Merc crank is the same as the early crank dimensionally, except for the 4" stroke You can use the early rods as well as the late ones. You must use a piston with the wrist p
Gramps
 
Thank you. After setting over the winter for about 7 months and after putting the stock 46 distributor in and started after warm up I noticed moisture in the oil. Not a belly full of water but still a little moisture present. I'm thinking if I need to look for another good 59ab I am going to put a Merc. crank in the 40. I just don't want to have to re design the front pulley fan set up to do so.
 
Okay for another question if I decide to go with a 8BA style block. I am aware of the Merc. or F1 truck bell and the F1 water pumps. I would plan on using the early heads cam and gear and timing cover. And tapping the water passage on I believe the right head. Will the F1 water pump pulleys line up with the 59ab pulley? Will I need to use the 49-53 flywheel opposed to 59A flywheel? As for the chatter rods are they necessary? Other then the things I am aware of are there any other surprises pulling the AB and using the later block in a 40? Asking because I have 2 later blocks and no extra 59's that I would trust.
 
you always use the flywheel thats made for the block. Crank flange is the same, its starter location that dictates that. Not sure what pumps to use, others will fill the gap there
 
Sid said:
Thank you. After setting over the winter for about 7 months and after putting the stock 46 distributor in and started after warm up I noticed moisture in the oil. Not a belly full of water but still a little moisture present. I'm thinking if I need to look for another good 59ab I am going to put a Merc. crank in the 40. I just don't want to have to re design the front pulley fan set up to do so.
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The 40 pulley and fan will work with the Mercury crankshaft.
 
What type of moisture did you see? It's not uncommon to see moisture in a crankcase or inside an engine after sitting over the winter, especially if it's an unheated garage. You'd be surprised at how much can accumulate when the dew points are in cahoots against you.
 
cjshaker said:
What type of moisture did you see? It's not uncommon to see moisture in a crankcase or inside an engine after sitting over the winter, especially if it's an unheated garage. You'd be surprised at how much can accumulate when the dew points are in cahoots against you.
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That has crossed my mind also. The shop is only heated when I'm out there. It's the first time I had this issue. I just rebuilt this engine about 4 years ago and there were no cracks. I have never had it over 200 degrees. Normally runs 175-182. I'm going to change the oil and probably drive it in a couple weeks and keep an eye on it.
 
I've done 4 early engines with a 4 inch crank. 2 of them I was lucky to score new still in cosmoline 59L blocks. I used an 8BA cam in all four so I could use the late style top mount distributor. Water pumps were mute as on all 4 I used my 409 water pump kit with my machined aluminum front timing cover and converted Chevy distributors.
 
If you're trying to put the later block in a 40 chassis - and want the easiest possible way to do it, then make the WHOLE front of the engine the same as a 39-48 24 stud engine.

You'll use the 59AB water pumps, timing cover, crank/cam gears, T-Slot camshaft, crank pulley, front-mount distributor, etc.. On the rear of the engine, you'll need to use the 49-53 flywheel and obviously the engine-to-trans bellhousing adapter and associated starter plate.

The other thing that you'll need is the correct rear-sump oil-pan - which I believe is a bit hard to find and only on certain Mercury models and possibly trucks. The gang here can tell you what to look for???

This allows you to use the 40 Fan and Generator setup as well . . .
 
Sid said:
Is there any advantage to a relieved 59 AB block?
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The age-old question and debate!

For a street engine that is NOT really ran at higher RPMs (like over 4500), it is probably of no use - and actually lowers compression. Compression is your friend . . . so losing it at lower RPMs and never really building a race engine (that needs the higher RPM breathing of a complete port/relief/valve/cam package) is a losing proposition.

Now, if you're building a big cubic inch, heavily ported, big-valves, big cam, high RPM race style engine, it can help flow across the transfer area - but only at higher RPMs.
 
Kinda what I thought. It looks like it could drop at least 1/2 point in compression maybe slightly even more.
 
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