merc cam price

Kurt in NJ said:
Various valve clearance setting fixtures for measuring and using with valve grinder, the grinding machine has a micrometer type adjustment that controls how much is removed from the stem
the one on the top i think came with a B&D machine, it will do T,A,B,60hp, and regular flathead V8, the others won’t do 60hp, one of those sets is Snap On blue point brand
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511506
 
5851a said:
How long will something last after dipped in cosmoline? Just asking.
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I can answer your question as it pertains to NOS Ford flathead crankshaft rod and main bearings.
I have found Cosmoline will attack the bearing Babbitt surface actually eating away at the surface rendering the bearings junk. Cosmoline will not preserve a surface forever it eventually becomes acidic from what I have seen at least on bearings.
Ronnieroadster
 
Tim Ayers said:
Like I said, I hope Pete, Ronnie, Kiwi Tony or others chime in to explain.
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Tim
I always use adjustable lifters I never tried using the stock lifters on anything I do so I have no experience on this subject. Using stock non adjustable lifters would of course require the valve stem length to be longer to account for the additional lift on a reground cam.

That being said

Using a good quality high tensile strength welding rod to add to the valve stem length would certainly hold up fine especially in a Ford flathead application.
Ronnieroadster
 
cjshaker said:
There's no way that would be cheaper, as claimed. And I'd have to wonder how well the welded tip would hold up unless it was properly re-heat-treated. I like the idea of using the steel lifter; fewer pieces means fewer related problems, but is this actually the way guys are doing it?
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Technology passed you by in the 50's.
In the old days we torch brazed the tips with Eutectic 16fc. No heat treat required.
Now we TIG weld with 347 stainless. No heat treat required.
Machine to length in a lathe with DRO.
For last 20 years we have been using John Deere valves if the customer wants stainless to run nitro. Otherwise it is NASCAR titanium take outs. Neither require welding.
Our lifters have 9 3/8 holes drilled in them and weigh 33 grams.

We only do vintage circle track engines of 321 ci or bigger and we turn them 7200 twice a lap. NO valve train problems. Cam lift in the .450 range.
 
Pete said:
Technology passed you by in the 50's.
In the old days we torch brazed the tips with Eutectic 16fc. No heat treat required.
Now we TIG weld with 347 stainless. No heat treat required.
Machine to length in a lathe with DRO.
For last 20 years we have been using John Deere valves if the customer wants stainless to run nitro. Otherwise it is NASCAR titanium take outs. Neither require welding.
Our lifters have 9 3/8 holes drilled in them and weigh 33 grams.

We only do vintage circle track engines of 321 ci or bigger and we turn them 7200 twice a lap. NO valve train problems. Cam lift in the .450 range.
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I wasn't even born yet in the '50s, but do have a fair bit of experience with performance engines. Are you talking about flatheads running nitro and turning 7200 rpm? Today, you simply custom order a set of valves with longer stems. Maybe technology has passed you by?
 
cjshaker said:
Are you talking about flatheads running nitro and turning 7200 rpm? Today, you simply custom order a set of valves with longer stems. Maybe technology has passed you by?
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The nitro is for Bonneville. Vintage circle racing is limited to alcohol or gas.
As far as the valves, it would seem rather stupid to order a set of valves from yourself.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
I can answer your question as it pertains to NOS Ford flathead crankshaft rod and main bearings.
I have found Cosmoline will attack the bearing Babbitt surface actually eating away at the surface rendering the bearings junk. Cosmoline will not preserve a surface forever it eventually becomes acidic from what I have seen at least on bearings.
Ronnieroadster
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Good to know about the bearings, it was a devil to wash off of service parts. I can't remember what it was but ruined the parts washer solvent.
 
Pete said:
Well there ya are ya see, I never thought about that. Without looking it up, I will take a wag at it and say, cylinder offset so it can't get stuck "on center"???
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Well Pete & Zeke3 ....Fair guesses, I guess, but no free chicken dinners!

For those wondering WTF? I had asked Pete.... "WHY MUST ALL ROUND MOTORS HAVE AN ODD NUMBER OF CYLINDERS PER ROW"?

It's possible that when I added "PER ROW", I may have confused matters. So, let's just imagine any of the simpler SINGLE ROW round motors, which all function on the same theory. For instance, we have the famous Pratt & Whitney R985 9-cylinder "round-motor". I stated that ALL round motors have an odd number of cylinders, per row. Well, the "985" is a single row engine. There is also a 7-cylinder Jacobs, as well as a 5-cylinder Kinner.... ALL with a mandatory odd number of cylinders made-up in configurations of one row each.

All round motors (technically called "radial engines") have odd numbers of cylinders. The question was WHY? It all has to do with firing order. All round motors have #1 cylinder on top (as you face the REAR of engine). The cylinders are numbered as you count them in a CLOCKWISE direction. So, to keep matters simple here, let's look at a Kinner 5-cylinder engine. #1 cylinder is sticking up on top, center. The next cylinder to your RIGHT in the rotation is #2, then continuing on to #3, then around to #4, and eventually ending-up at #5, located to the LEFT of #1 up there on the very top.

Below is a visual of a 5-cylinder round motor. KEEP IN MINDThis one is being seen FROM the Rear. THIS ONE is rotating clockwise.

firing-order.gif
The actual firing order is 1-3-5-2-4. And you must remember that these are regular old 4-CYCLE engines.

On the 5-cylinder engine, #1 fires, skip ONE cylinder and #3 fires. Then we skip a cylinder and #5 fires. Then we skip #1, and #2 fires. Then we skip #3 and #4 fires. After #4-cylinder fires, the next in line to fire would be #1 since the order skips ONE cylinder (#5) before firing again.

IF you had a 6th cylinder, or any other even number of cylinders, your firing order would never let you get back to #1 cylinder firing.

Make sense now?

Coop



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Coop I have always admired anything air craft related especial radial engines. Heck last month I spent many hours at the Air Museum in Chino enjoying every minute of it. However I never gave much thought to the reason for the odd number of cylinders or the firing order. Your explanation is now etched in my brain I really enjoyed your explanation and visual example.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Coop I have always admired anything air craft related especial radial engines. Heck last month I spent many hours at the Air Museum in Chino enjoying every minute of it. However I never gave much thought to the reason for the odd number of cylinders or the firing order. Your explanation is now etched in my brain I really enjoyed your explanation and visual example.
Ronnieroadster
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Ronnie .... If you spent quality time at Chino, you have seen (and hopefully heard) much of the best that there is. Glad that I was able to help explain something for YOU, for a change.

Coop

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Coop thanks very much for the explanation. I too have always loved radial engines and been very intrigued by them. My old boss has a T6 with one a spare on a stand and some other kind on a stand. One of the baddest looking I have seen was a staggered multi row in the Curtis museum. Again thanks makes perfect sense.
 
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I too love radials. From birth untill the early 60s I often rode Ford Tri-motors to Put-In-Bay Ohio. Also watched Super G Constalations do mag checks & run ups at Port Columbus. The sound & smell are GR8, just like our flatheads have their own attributes. They also "mark their territories"..........
 
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