Media blasting Cabinet problems

MJ's40,

I just went to home depot and bought an under counter light, that fit between the air intake flu and the exhaust port on the cabinet, measure the distance so you know how long of one to buy, get a cheapy that the bulb is covered, drill some holes in the back or top and mount, ran the cord up the air intake flu and put auto wire tubing cover on it, works great.
 
Kurt in NJ,

I set the pressure at 100lb because that is what the manual said, however it may have meant best not too exceed, I will try 45lb, but I am thinking for the distance I am away from the compressor and the light ness of the material maybe won't strong enough for some of the tough debris and rust.
 
Excess air pressure will shatter the glass beads...40-45 lbs should be sufficient. Glass beads shouldn't be used to remove tough debris and rust...
 
Re: A lot of Modification to the blast cabinet >>>

1st thing I replaced was the 2' Floresent with a flood lite I put a 4" metal box with the switch on the out side and the lite on the inside it's up near the top & been there for going on 3 years with out dulling or braking the bulb.
Next the dust problem.
When we built the house I had them put a central vac connection out in the Garage.I set it up with a on and off switch instead of the vacume switch on the hose.I went with large shop vack hose then with plastic fittings I reduced it down to fit ( WORKS GREAT ) Lee only has to remove the hose in the Garage so she can have full pressure to vacume in the house.
Next problem movement of blasting sand AKA Black beauty.
A while ago I bought a H Freight stand alone belt sander the motor was way to small so I had a old table saw and took that motor an put on sander Problem fixed
I then took the very low H.P. electric motor and welded the groove half way around cutting off the part of the pully that was not welded.
Bolted this on the bottom of the hopper I wired one of the electrical receptical to a on / off switch so I don't have to plug it in every time I need it suprisingly it Shakes enough to move the material down with out bouncing the whole cabinet around.
This cabinet was one that the air was controlled by the hand trigger did not like that so I got a complete foot air brake pedal now I can controll the air flow and pressure by how hard I step down on the pedal.
Now for the glass / Plastic window getting all cloudy all the time.
We all know about the clear plastic to cover up the window but we also know what a pain in the butt it is to change all the time.
I have got it down to aprox. 30 sec.
Here is how I accomplish this task
1st thing I did was take the frame off and the window out
Now here is the best part I took a peace of window screen just a little bit larger then the opening I put double sided tape around the opening and pushed the screen on to the tape.
now for crear plastic I went to the local hardware store and bought a roll of the clear type of plastic you would use on your house windows in the winter.It's a lot cheaper then whats out there and I think it works As good. I have about a Dozen or so cut up a head of time.
To in stall this I use the double sidded tape again I do both side of the window ( Be suprised how many scraches show up on the out side of the window.)
Now it's back to installing the frame.Like I said I took all the bolts out.
I then replaced them with 4 of the window locks you would find on your house window ( it's like a cam the more you turn it the more it pushes down )
Now when you put this all together you look rite through the window screen & it really extends the life of the clear plastic.
With as much blasting I do I can get around 2 weeks out of the clear plastic.
Merry Christmas my present from me to you
BILL W
 
I built a wood cab from TP plans and use aluminum oxide at between 45-65 lbs depending on what I'm blasting. Got 3/4" cpvc pipe from home depot and ran a rectangular loop from the compressor (at front of garage) to rear, then up and back to front, then down to air outlets. blaster is plumbed in at the rear going up off of the top of the loop then to the cabinet. Basically, it all drains back to the compressor and I put in tees to horizontal runs for separators on the drops and ball valves at the bottom of the T's. Total cost for piping, fittings glue, clamps and rubber flex lines between the compressor and hard lines was way under $100. This gives me about 30' of cooling between the compressor and cabinet and separators/drain valves where they do the most good. A separator near the compressor won't be too effective, the air is too hot and holding the moisture. Compressor runs to about 135 psi, no problems with the cpvc.
RB
 
RB35 said:
I built a wood cab from TP plans and use aluminum oxide at between 45-65 lbs depending on what I'm blasting. Got 3/4" cpvc pipe from home depot and ran a rectangular loop from the compressor (at front of garage) to rear, then up and back to front, then down to air outlets. blaster is plumbed in at the rear going up off of the top of the loop then to the cabinet. Basically, it all drains back to the compressor and I put in tees to horizontal runs for separators on the drops and ball valves at the bottom of the T's. Total cost for piping, fittings glue, clamps and rubber flex lines between the compressor and hard lines was way under $100. This gives me about 30' of cooling between the compressor and cabinet and separators/drain valves where they do the most good. A separator near the compressor won't be too effective, the air is too hot and holding the moisture. Compressor runs to about 135 psi, no problems with the cpvc.
RB
Click to expand...


I know some use it, and have had no problems YET, but PVC/CPVC pipe was not designed for compressed air or gas, and should not be used for it. The pressure rating decreases with temperature increase, and the really weak points are at the glued junctions. When this stuff fails, it shatters, and will hurt you! :eek: The larger the diameter, the better chance of a failure because of the lower pressure rating. It is recommended that if you use PVC, run the main feeds in the attic and use metal for the drops to minimize the danger. Plus the fact you want metal piping for the first few feet from the compressor to keep condensation to a minimum in the system. One type of non-metal pipe suitable for high pressure is ABS, but I'll stick with iron pipe. Cheap and easy to work with are not always the best or safest :(
 
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My modifications, I changed the gun before using it as others had suggested, used a craftsman affordable one I had good experience with before and the ceramic tips are easy to get. I use 50-60 lbs of air and made a trap in the exhaust as was posted on the old barn. it catches a (lot) prior to the vacuum.
 

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I use a PAR 38 weather proof flood lamp in upper left corner. It works pretty well but would be better with another in the right corner. I used to have an old vacuum cleaner hooked up but the abrasive dust finally got to the old vac. bill
 
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