Mechanical Questions

Chevmn56

Chevmn56

Senior Member
Hello all, I have some questions about the A motor

1. I am wanting to take out the oil filler tube and get it blasted and powder coated, i read every where that it is pressed in......is there a way to get it out and get it coated and re-installed??.

2. Do the frickin cam lugs come out if so how???? i have new ones to put in but they wont budge and im afraid to go whacking on them with a chisel????

3. I was putting on a front floating motor mount and noticed some rust and a possible crack in the bottom where the OEM mount goes through the cross member. If there is a crack in the cross member is it worth\needed welding and grinding smooth and repainting, or is there a new cross member replacement out there?

Thanks in advance
 
Filler tube:

Yes, pressed in with just the pressure of the tube against the engine block. A couple whacks back and forth with a rubber mallet should free it up. Take a picture of the baffles inside the tube before taking it off. You will want the baffle position to go back in its original orientation as its position helps in letting oil splash back up the tube.
 
What is a "frickin cam lug"? Can you past a picture? I would drill a hole to stop the crack and weld it. That would be easier than replacing the cross member with rivets.

Charlie Stephens
 
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there are a whole lot of 'fricken' parts..just like their are 'jesus' clips...you know,that clip you slide in when you put the light spider on the shaft...its the first thing you say when you drop it..


if its the 'fricken' rear brake cam they freeze in good and tight..if you hit them with a chisel watch out for shrapnel,they are harder than the hubs of hell..
 
Cam lugs??? Is that some Chevy thing?

If you powder coat the draft tube, be sure not to coat the area that inserts into the block.
 
Charlie Stephens said:
What is a "frickin cam lug"? Can you past a picture? I would drill a hole to stop the crack and weld it. That would be easier than replacing it with rivets.
Charlie Stephens
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Lol sorry for my newness to the Model A engine... any Chev V8 i have rebuilt had two bolts to hold the cam gear on....but the Model A has those two ****, nubs and a nut or what ever they are called that are indexed to the cam gear.....probably to keep it from spinning?????




J Franklin said:
Yes what are the "fricken cam lugs"?
Click to expand...

Same as above.

Railcarmover said:
there are a whole lot of 'fricken' parts..just like their are 'jesus' clips...you know,that clip you slide in when you put the light spider on the shaft...its the first thing you say when you drop it..


if its the 'fricken' rear brake cam they freeze in good and tight..if you hit them with a chisel watch out for shrapnel,they are harder than the hubs of hell..
Click to expand...

LMAO really i am.....yeah "frickin" i guess is a slang for F%$*ing since there is no cussing on forums, maybe a Utah thing not sure.
 
Is this the tool you need for the nut on the cam? Probably available from most vendors.

Charlie Stephens
 

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If you're talking about the rectangular cam nut, the vendors sell a tool that fits it. Otherwise, the vendors sell a modern nut that can be tightened with a large socket.

I believe the cam gear is indexed so it can't be mounted backwards.
 
Well everything been covered except the cracked cross member! Stop drill the crack at the ends and weld it or have it welded. You probably don't want to get into replacing it :-)
 
If you are trying to remove the timing gear, yes it can stick on there like a bear. Either destroy it or gently use a wheel puller and pry bars and a lot of patience. Good luck.
 
Bob C said:
Why would you want to change the cam dowel pins?

Bob
Click to expand...

Yes the cam dowel pins are what i was talking about !!! lol. The cam nut was already murdered by a chisel by someone else so i just finished it off it wasn't but 2-3 good wacks and it came off. The dowels serve 2 functions? 1 so you cant put the gear on wrong and too 2. To keep it from spinning just in case the nut ever worked it self loose (i know probably never happen)??.......so am i to assume the cam dowel pins are not a wear item and will fit nice and snug in my new aluminium cam gear?????? if i dont need to worry about i wont????


Thanks to all who have replied and dealt with my ignorance....i am getting better and i am learning a lot on my own and love the Model A.......so to all you ornery old timers ....have patience with guys not as knowledgeable as yourself cuz one day they will be in your shoes and hopefully they will not look down at the new young blood whos looking to carry on the the Model A heritage and gladly pass on their knowledge or lack of on to them with a smile, remembering the time they came on this forum dumber than a box of rocks on models A's........ask me anything about the Tri Five Chevys, 40's Packards, 70's Chevy's PU or the late 70's Ford PU and i will gladly share my knowledge and help when i can.

Thanks again for all your guys inputs it is valued !!!!!!!....Oh yeah Merry xmas!!!!!!!!
 
Jacksonlll said:
If you are trying to remove the timing gear, yes it can stick on there like a bear. Either destroy it or gently use a wheel puller and pry bars and a lot of patience. Good luck.
Click to expand...


I got it of and yeah it was a bear......but i had patience and didnt break out the sledge hammer!!!!! lol
 
Big hammer said:
Well everything been covered except the cracked cross member! Stop drill the crack at the ends and weld it or have it welded. You probably don't want to get into replacing it :-)
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Hammer yeah i agree i looked at it close tonight and i dont want to really want to get into replacing the cross member........i will stop drill it and weld it up and grind it smooth.......
 
Fred S said:
I believe the cam gear is indexed so it can't be mounted backwards.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about this, and I now think it is wrong. I think the reason for the indexing is so the camshaft is in the correct position, in relation to the timing dimple. It's been awhile since I changed one.
 
I would consider NOT blasting the oil fill tube. It is just about impossible to get all the abrasive removed from inside the tube and around the baffles. Any left over abrasive can find its way down into the engine and raise hell with the bearings etc.

Just my opinion,

Chris W.
 
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