Mechanical Brakes

Many of the "early" hydraulic brake systems were very difficult to maintain because "early" synthetic materials would wear quickly and could not prevent both internal fluid leaks and external fluid leaks.

In quite a few cases years ago, after a vehicle was unattended for some time, drivers would take off and later experience the brake pedal going all the way to the floor board with absolutely "NO" brakes because of leaked fluid.

Many had to perform a hydraulic brake synthetic material restoration every month or so, depending on age of car and amounts of vehicle usage.

On the other hand, many did not maintain Model A mechanical brakes.

FWIW as it pertains to Life Safety, "today", with our modern faster traffic, texting & cell phones, non- functional Model A brakes and horizontal rides go together ...... i.e., horizontal rides in either an ambulance or a hearse.
 
denis4x4 said:
By the way, when you use dual cylinder master cylinders, you still have brakes in the event of s cut hose. In 25 years of driving A's with hydraulic brakes, I've never had a leaky wheel cylinder...what am I doing wrong?
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If you don't have that dual master cylinder and linkage set up exactly as designed, you may not "still have brakes in the event of a cut hose"! Have you verified that you can still stop by opening a bleeder screw on one end of the car, holding the pedal and have someone try to turn a wheel on the other end, then reversing the procedure? You may be surprised!
 
eagle said:
"More powerful"?? Skidding is skidding. Properly installed hydraulic brakes can reduce the pressure on the pedal, but that doesn't mean they are more powerful. Poorly done hydraulic s are a safety disaster, as are poorly done mechanicals.
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What other advantage is there for fitting hydraulic brakes then? The Model A has very little grip through its tyres and mechanical brakes can be made to lock the wheels without much effort. They do, however, suit the way the car needs to be driven. I think you are just backing up my original point, well set up mechanical brakes stop the car efficiently, hydraulic brakes can do no more and are, in fact, more likely yo cause a skid.
 
Chippy Minton said:
What other advantage is there for fitting hydraulic brakes then? The Model A has very little grip through its tyres and mechanical brakes can be made to lock the wheels without much effort. They do, however, suit the way the car needs to be driven. I think you are just backing up my original point, well set up mechanical brakes stop the car efficiently, hydraulic brakes can do no more and are, in fact, more likely yo cause a skid.
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As you allude, the limitation to braking in the model A is the narrow tyres skidding on the road. Hydraulics have a larger drum and are capable of exerting greater pressure on the shoes. If you run standard wheels, there is no improvement in the end result but if you run wider tyres, over sized or say, 16" wheels with radial tyres, braking will be light years ahead of the standard set up. Mechanical brakes wouldn't have the strength to skid the wider tyres.
All that said, I think the dodgey brakes, steering and suspension (compared with a modern car) are all part of the reason we enjoy driving our Model As.
 
Last I checked, brake shoes and or brake pads are mechanical --having human only or human assisted with hydraulic pressure does nothing to change that. Hydraulics aid the human energy needed apply to the mechanical shoes or pads.
 
My mechanicals were completely restored from backing plates out.. every inch.. rods bushings etc. etc. etc.

I have great mechanical brakes... few people have the knowledge, skill and patience to do it right. Our club master mechanic did it RIGHT ! I tour Eastern Ky, TN, W VA. Very hilly.. went with cast iron drums... a must going down those steep winding grades!. No more fade.
 
I'm restoring a VERY EARLY 1928 sport coupe. Can't find any info on the four wheel braking system. Emergency brake and foot brake work as one system. I have some parts missing and have found zero info, diagrams or pics anywhere. Bought ($$$)all the books that claim everything you need to know to restore the A. Nothing applies to the EARLY 28. Any help? Thanks, Harold.
 
I've converted 2 cars back to mechanical brakes. The best thing you can do for mechanicals is USE THE NEW CAST IRON DRUMS. Work great, don't fade.
 
hbarnett said:
I'm restoring a VERY EARLY 1928 sport coupe. Can't find any info on the four wheel braking system. Emergency brake and foot brake work as one system. I have some parts missing and have found zero info, diagrams or pics anywhere. Bought ($$$)all the books that claim everything you need to know to restore the A. Nothing applies to the EARLY 28. Any help? Thanks, Harold.
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There's a picture of the system on page 40 of "The Ford Model A As Henry Built It"

Bob
 
My 2 cents worth. If the whole system is restored correctly, all the worn parts are gone, and the brakes are adjusted by the book, mechanical brakes are great. I recommend getting cast iron drums. You will notice a big improvement, especially braking on a longer hill.
 
hbarnett said:
I'm restoring a VERY EARLY 1928 sport coupe. Can't find any info on the four wheel braking system. Emergency brake and foot brake work as one system. I have some parts missing and have found zero info, diagrams or pics anywhere. Bought ($$$)all the books that claim everything you need to know to restore the A. Nothing applies to the EARLY 28. Any help? Thanks, Harold.
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Ask your questions here, https://www.facebook.com/groups/E28Modelaford/
 
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