mechanical brake problems

1935coupe

1935coupe

Member
Did a mostly stock rebuild on the mechanicals of the car trans, rear, added overdrive and replaced all brakes with woven linings replaced actuator bushings and added floaters.
I adjusted brakes as described :tightened all floaters till wheel was tight, adjust clevis to allow pin to just slide in installed pin then back off adjuster till wheel spins free. Pulled parking brake 1 click adjusted wheels to drag the same.
took it for a drive and she pulled to the left hard so I loosened the clevis on the left 2 wheels, more on the left rear as it would skid, then the brakes were low but stopped fine except . . . backing down the driveway, small hill down, touch the brakes and the right rear locked up and would not release until I went forward. I drove it like this for about 60 miles and nothing changed.
I removed wheel to check and see what is going on and found nothing. I reinstalled some old bonded shoes that looked to be in good condition on rear and adjusted again, now backing is not a problem but she pulls hard left again. Adjusting helps but still pulls left. No I did not have the shoes arced I do have a arcing machine at work but no one knows how to use it and I don’t know anyone around here that does it. I was thinking if I just drive it the shoes would ware in and the pull will stop, is this true or just wishful thinking
 
You can hand sand the shoes. Did you follow the book on adjusting
the main cross arm? G.M.
 
G.M. said:
You can hand sand the shoes. Did you follow the book on adjusting
the main cross arm? G.M.
Click to expand...
adjusting main cross arm? are you talking about the rod from the peddle to the actuator cross shaft? this was adjusted to 1/16 inch gap on the ebrake
 
1935coupe said:
adjusting main cross arm? are you talking about the rod from the peddle to the actuator cross shaft? this was adjusted to 1/16 inch gap on the ebrake
Click to expand...

No sure of correct name but is the arm that all 4 bake rods connect to.
There is a service procedure to adjust so all brakes pull equal at the
same time. G.M.
 
I had the same problem on my '36. Check the rod length and straightness. These things need to be laser straight. Unfortunately, new NOS rods are getting super hard to find. As for "wearing-in," don't count on it. :( Oh yes, my '36 now has hydraulics. The conversion was definitely not a "ten minute job" but it now brakes straight and trouble-free!:)

Tom
 
I had a similar problem with my '34 roadster about 20 years ago. I sanded the woven linings like GM said but I also needed to round the leading edges. I had the woven linings bonded and the mechanical brakes are still working fine today. I don't think I've adjusted them more than two or three times.
 
Are they factory floaters or aftermarket

were the shoes centered ---roller pins come in different diameters to adjust

how close do the shoes fit the drums---how big are the drums---when you put the shoes in the drums does the lining touch in the center or the ends
 
You may need to go completely through the mechanical braking system, eliminating all points of wear. G.M. is talking about the cross shaft mechanism that bolts to the front center section of X member, directly above the rubber ball mount for the front wishbone. This cross shaft usually needs to be replaced/rebuilt as well as any other components in the mechanical braking system that are subject to wear. Unless every point of wear is eliminated, and the system adjusted correctly, you will never get acceptable braking. I did this on my avatar pictured 35 fordor and feel that these brakes are now as good as any stock '39-'48 hydraulic braking system.
If/when I ever decide to go with hydraulics on any of my original '35's, I would go directly to the Lincoln Bendix system with a brake line booster behind the MC.
 
Did you cut the drums? It could be out of round? I used a belt sander on the woven shoes to arc them to fit the drums for good contact. A little off the top and bottom works well go gentle with the sander, use a mask (asbestos). Many shops won't let you in the place with asbestos shoes.
 
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the floaters look like a star wheel like most adjusters on newer drum brakes
the cross shaft bushings were replaced. the King pins and bushing were also replaced.
I did not cut the drums, before I started and the car did stop very good, no pulsation, stopped straight as any car I have driven.

I adjusted the right side to just start to drag and the left side to be loose and she stops straight on normal braking but pulls a little on hard braking.
I drove about 15 miles and the right side was loose again so I adjusted it to just drag again.

I had it on a drive on lift yesterday, had someone pressing the brake and everything looks as expected. rods did not bend or flex. I am thinking the shoes are seating in and will eventually all grab at the same rate.

as far as centering the shoes, I do not see this described in my books. All the rollers and wedges are the same so I am not sure this needs to be done.
 
Sometimes you get a little grease on the shoes and it will cause the shoes to grab ( even dirty hands smacking the shoes around). I had these problems come to me when I worked in a brake shop. If you take the drum off clean the shoes and drum clean it well with a solvent to remove of any substance. Can use sandpaper as well but with woven be careful go lightly.
 
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