Measuring axel and hub wear

M

Mike the Grump

Member
I suspect I have a wear issue. I've not pulled the drums/hubs yet. Is there a a way to determine if the axel, hub, or both are worn.

I have new cast drums. I had planned to reuse the hubs but, if they are on the outside edge of serviceable it seems short sided not to replace them.
 

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I wonder if that's the right nut for the axle?
How close is the drum to the backing plate?
It would be best to remove the wheel and check the condition of the two tapers.
 
Mike the Grump said:
I suspect I have a wear issue. I've not pulled the drums/hubs yet. Is there a a way to determine if the axel, hub, or both are worn.

I have new cast drums. I had planned to reuse the hubs but, if they are on the outside edge of serviceable it seems short sided not to replace them.
Click to expand...


Use a bore scope (available for your phone for about $20.00) that allows you to go inside the tapered portion of the hub and check for scoring or galling. If there is, you can use a tapered reamer if you have one to lightly take the high-places out, but for most people, the better solution is to purchase a new hub. And if you have a good axle, you can use Prussian Blue pressure grease to check the fit in the taper.

Also, you need to check the bearing surface of the hub and use a telescoping bore gauge to mic it. Often times, poor (-or lack of) grease causes this to wear which creates a centering issue.
 
Sorry for the delay. Yes, I was viewing the fit of the cotter pin in relation to the castle nut to be a potential sign of wear. It could very well be the wrong nut.

Brent, I appreciate the ideas on how to evaluate it. Had not heard of Prussian blue before.

It may be awhile before I get it apart.

Thank you.
 
There are a number of less than desirable rear axle nuts out there in Model A supplier land.

Even Ebay is challenged to provide a sufficiently strong nut.

Fastenal can provide grade 2 and possibly grade 5 in a slightly different style.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0169109?r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600072%20Nuts%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22602449%20Castle%20Nuts%22|~%20~|sattr01:^5/8%22$|~%20~|sattr02:^18$|~

We've spoken earlier about getting grade 8 castle nuts - they're available if you buy a box of 500 for considerable cost.

I ended up getting axle nuts from Dorman, who assures me the 5/8-18 nuts they sell are between Grade 5 and Grade 8 (european grading apparently) and probably the equal of original Ford fasteners in this application. (ANSI grading of fasteners had yet to be developed in 1928 and Ford doubtless would consider any nut to be "proprietary" and only to be sourced from Ford Authorized dealers. "Gyp parts" concerns cited.)

Here's the Dorman axle nuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-814-066-18-Castellated-Hex/dp/B0033YMFQC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If anyone else has a suggestion for quality axle nuts?

Joe K
 
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I did some looking, I feel the nut is something in the range or excedes the metric 12.9 rating--
grade 8 ---33-39
grade 12.9===39-44

file will cut below 45-50, file skates without cutting in the 55-65 range
\
original nuts a file won't cut, only very slight scratches so I would say it is over 50, Ford liked to use many different alloy steels and heat treat them, the axle nuts, spring U-bolt nuts---S18, case hardened

just because it is "OLD" doesn't mean it can't be a higher quality steel than is common today, it was a special nut then too


---from old book on banjo rebuilding from the era--
if the wheel bearing surface is scored, pitted or worn in excess of .010 for more than 1/2 the width of the bearing the housing should be replaced
 
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