Measurements for bending 1 3/8 wrench

2829

Junior Member
I have tried to find Paul Shinns video on bending the 1 3/8 inch wrench, for the crankshaft nut, not having any luck. Would anyone have the dimensions for bending. Thank You.
 
Here is the wrench I heated and bent with my torch. My crank nut is 5/16". Also decided to try and save a few zenith floats. Thay have the common indentation from the float. I JB Welded a piece of .001 stainless shim stock over the indent. getting ready to put another carb together, we'll see how well it works. Be nice to save some old floats.
 

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Here again, think my brain is mush tonight. Indented from the float valve riding the brass float arm over the years.
 
Here is the wrench I heated and bent with my torch. My crank nut is 5/16". Also decided to try and save a few zenith floats. Thay have the common indentation from the float. I JB Welded a piece of .001 stainless shim stock over the indent. getting ready to put another carb together, we'll see how well it works. Be nice to save some old floats.

For better measurements, you should put the two vertical tape measures on the other side of the horizontal tape measure. Otherwise your bend depth/measurements are about an inch off.
 
Here is the wrench I heated and bent with my torch. My crank nut is 5/16". Also decided to try and save a few zenith floats. Thay have the common indentation from the float. I JB Welded a piece of .001 stainless shim stock over the indent. getting ready to put another carb together, we'll see how well it works. Be nice to save some old floats.


Is there a specific type of JB Weld that you used for the floats? My experience with JB Weld Original is that it doesn't stick well at all to smooth surfaces like the brass float. I'm concerned that it would come loose and contaminate the inside of the carburetor.
 
I used to use a socket with an extension inserted through the crank hole until I installed a front tool box that blocks the crank hole. I purchased one of the rathet nut wrenches from the vendors but found that my knuckles were getting dinged up by the radiator fins. So I heated up the torch and bent it. I didn’t measure, I just eyeballed the first bend to bring it back a little from the radiator, then the second bend to clear the fan belt. The offset isn’t much, just enough to give you a clear grip.

Hope this helps. It works for me, YMMV.
 

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Is there a specific type of JB Weld that you used for the floats? My experience with JB Weld Original is that it doesn't stick well at all to smooth surfaces like the brass float. I'm concerned that it would come loose and contaminate the inside of the carburetor.

A dab of solder and filled flat would be a better fix ! The best fix would be purchase a new float ! Renner’s sell carburetor parts that work beautifully !
 
My '30 sedan has a "toolbox" between the frame rails in front of the radiator. Therefore I can't get an extension (or anything) through the crank hole. The previous owner made this "wrench. Just a socket welded to a flat steel bar. Works like a charm.
 

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A dab of solder and filled flat would be a better fix ! The best fix would be purchase a new float ! Renner’s sell carburetor parts that work beautifully !


Hey, no doubt. I've purchased from Renner's Corner before and David is a great resource for info too. My curiosity was caused by the OP's mention of JB Weld on the float as I recently found the float in a Zenith that I purchased that had the JB Weld treatment. I remember thinking "why would someone do that?". That same float had its weight in grams written on it with a sharpie.
 
Here is the wrench I heated and bent with my torch. My crank nut is 5/16".

I don’t think there’s a lot of the 1 5/16” replacement nuts out there. I came across one and had to buy a 1 5/16” socket to remove it.
Maybe one day you’ll have to make another crank wrench 1 3/8”.
 
My measurements weren't really intended to be a go to spec to build one, just a general idea what I did. I am going to make adjustments to the bends in the future to give a better throw. I also do the socket from the front, but when trying to watch things move rather than just moving something, it's easier to do the wrench.

As for the float, the regular JB has held up good before in gas on other projects not A related. The jury is still out on it adhearing to the stainless shim stock, I did rough it up on the JB side, and sanded the float clean before glueing it. I thought the solder would be to soft, but I never tried it so don't know for sure. I have a plastic freezer bag of old floats, and various zenith parts from a box of junk carbs I got at a swapmeet. Just wanted to see if I could save some floats from the brass recycler. I always try to refurbish, rebuild, restore etc. before buying new. Will submerge the float in some gas and see what happens with the JB Weld.
 
Something to keep in mind - the vendor-supplied wrench is six point, while most of the 1-3/8" sockets that I've seen (and have) are 12-point. Easier to find a position on the ratchet nut with a 12-point. The vendor-supplied wrench seems to be laser-cut, it would be just as easy to make that 12-point, I would guess.
 
Thanks to all for the help. I was able to make the bends as needed. The wrench works like a charm.
 
Klattu 1929: In my bag of floats, most do not have any markings, a few have a "Z" next to the float valve indentation and I found one that actually had ZENITH stamped into it. I don't know any time frames or sources for these , just a bit of interesting trivia.
 
I've never seen any floats from old zeniths with any markings, I'll have to keep a lookout for that, I just clean them up a bit see if they leak and write the weight on them. If dented they go to my brass pile.

Congrats to 2829, nice feeling of accomplishment.
 
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