Master Cylinder Push Rod

G

GAR64

Senior Member
Ok, another question for you guys. Replacing the master cylinder on my 56 Fairlane. Manual brakes single reservoir . The old push rod is threaded on the end??? and it is smaller in diameter than the new master. I am thinking that the push rod that was in there was the wrong one? I don't see the push rod available at the normal parts suppliers? Any thoughts???

thanks.
 
No it is not threaded,they are actually grooves that retained a plastic cup to prevent metal to metal contact.For the sake of safety I would change to a dual master cylinder Fenco M1485 from Autozone cost about $30 a couple fittings an a 20" length of 3/16" line and it is a done deal for under $50 total,you won't find a replacement cup but you can replace it with a vinyl vacuum plug with a dab of white grease on it.You might want to watch this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXfXKlj2D1I This applies to all 52-59 Ford cars a bunch of the guys here have done it:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=332
 
Good video. Guess that is the way to go and it looks fairly straightforward. If I decide to stay with the single, I am going to have to find a new push rod for it. Thanks!
 
Look in your master cylinder to see if the part is in there.

You can get the ends that were supposed to be there. I know CASCO has them, I assume the other parts suppliers have them. Also Try Tee-Bird Products in PA. They have all sorts of sedan and TBird parts.

One thing about dual master cylinders on older cars. The throw on the brakes in a lot of cases is not enough to activate the safety part. You will find out this soon enough if you get a leak - I did, twice-two different cars.

Do a static test - make sure the master is fully filled. Disconnect one of the brake hoses or open a bleeder and hit the pedal. If it works, you got a winner.
 
One on Ford I worked on, the push rod was to short to place the pedal at the top of its stroke. That pushrod had a ball on the end. I cut the ball off about a half inch from the end, and gas welded a bolt with its head cut off to lengthen the rod about 3/4 inch. The weld does not have to be certified because all the parts are captured inside the piston. If it fails, it will feel different and rattle. Mine never failed.
 
It occurred to me today that perhaps the tip was stuck in the old master. Then I read the advice here...and sure enough, that is exactly where it was. Thanks Paul. Once I get the new hoses and bleed the system, this car is going to hit the road for the first time in about 15 years.
 
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