Master Cylinder Mounting in 32' Frame

[Ian1932]

So, I have been tinkering with mounting a master cylinder in my 32' roadster frame. Im trying to find the easiest way possible. I made a mount out of wood to test and see if i need to make any mods once the pedals are installed. It would share the 3 bolts that hold the pedal bracket and pinch the frame. I know i will need to weld a post on the brake pedal to activate the push rod going into the the cylinder. If this works out, then i will just make one from steel...Do you guys see any reason why i shouldn't do it this way.

 

[Mart]

It's best to get the master cylinder up as high as possible, while still clearing the bottom of the K member. If you have it too low the lever on the brake pedal ends up a bit long and you lose leverage on the pedal. there was a thread on this recently, but it may have been on the hamb. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: try this. page 7 has some master cylinder discussion.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-jalopy-roadster-build.1157996

Mart.

 

[RalphM]

That should work!
There is also a “flat plate” design that simply bolts to the back of the K member using another plate as a spacer and it uses original holes.
I used one of these, very simple and works well. I still had to move the small arm on the brake pedal. I’ll see if I can find a picture.

 

[Ian1932]

It's best to get the master cylinder up as high as possible, while still clearing the bottom of the K member. If you have it too low the lever on the brake pedal ends up a bit long and you lose leverage on the pedal. there was a thread on this recently, but it may have been on the hamb. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: try this. page 7 has some master cylinder discussion.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-jalopy-roadster-build.1157996

Mart.

WOW! What an awesome car! I couldnt imagine finding something like that...!

I was thinking keeping as high as i could on the bracket (pic). I need to bolt this up and see how the stars align. I was going to try to keep the filler nut close the the "K" member, just enough room to get the nut off. Again, that roadster post is great!

 

[JSeery]

Rotated looks better to my eyes!

 

[Charlie Stephens]

My master cylinder mount uses the original pedals and no new bolt holes. I bolted a plate the the back of the K member using existing holes. I have a square metal tube welded to to plate. I moved the battery to the right side but with current batteries I might have been able to mount it on the left. The hole originally used to check the battery is now used to check the brake fluid.

It has worked fine for the last 45 years.

Charlie Stephens

 

[BoxCar Tom]

This is my favorite MC set up in a 32 frame. Use stock pedals, modify the brake rod center pivot.

 

[glennpm]

Tom,


That is a real clever arrangement! One I've never seen. Mart's design looks great too.

Rick, I think you are thinking about mounting under the stock clutch/brake bracket? This would raise the pedals up and not sure about other impacts that might cause. I would mount on the back of the center-section like above and the way I did it, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1824025&postcount=45

I also came across this thread yesterday, a 32 pickup that Dennis Lacy is building. It shows their design and kit for the brakes:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-updated-1-11-16.970252/page-10#post-11039172

Glenn

 

[PeteVS]

About 20 years ago, I started working on my long stored Corvette and as work proceeded in fits and starts so I decided that as a diversion, I'd start playing with building an A with a V8 based on the Bishop Tardel book. Lots is based on '32 parts and my brother had his '32 lying in the garage as a pile of parts. So, I pushed aside the A dream and dragged out the '32 parts and put it together again. The mechanical brakes had been tossed back in the '50s so hydraulics were necessary. I mounted the master cylinder ala Bishop Tardel and made a new brake pedal out of 3/8" plate steel to get the pushing arm. It turned out that the pedal to master cylinder leverage ratio was 4:1 instead of a universally recognized optimum 6:1 ratio. Stopping isn't quite what I had hoped for. Well, he's got the car now and I'm at last working on my A. I had bought a nice '32 K member but I didn't want to wind up with the same issue and I wasn't keen on cutting up the K member to fit the A frame. So, I laid out and welded up my own K member but I got the Mustang master cylinder way up "into" the K member instead of under it. Let me see if I can find my photos.
OK. Here's a link to an album in my profile page.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=690
I also made up a "low profile" pedal bracket that leaves the pedal shaft in the same position as a '32. Also made up new brake and clutch pedals.

When I started on this, the late Bruce Lancaster shared with me a whole bunch of other's ideas using bell cranks, putting the master cylinder in behind one of the legs of the K member. But, alas, he's gone with all that knowledge...

 

[RalphM]

Tom,
That is one of the slickest conversions I have seen as well!
Puts the MC away from a dual exhaust set up also!

 

[Ian1932]

Some really good ideas...I like the one using part of the mechanical brakes...Genius!

 

[32phil]

Check with The Early V 8 Garage in West Covina California, they make a bolt in kit that works like a charm. No welding ( YIKES !!! ) on the brake pedal either. No drilling , total bolt in and every bit and piece nut and washer provided.

 

[Fortunateson]

This is my favorite MC set up in a 32 frame. Use stock pedals, modify the brake rod center pivot.

I like this a lot but where do you hook up you ebrake?

 

[Krylon32]

I had a chassis that used a spare brake rod center pivot but mounted it to left of center on the backside of the K member, used the original pedals and put the master cylinder on the front side of the K on the left side along the frame. I liked it because it kept the mc under the drivers feet. Seemed to use all stock holes and kept the original e brake. While I realize this is about early Ford parts if I was going to all the work I'd use a dual MC.