Master Cylinder for '53 Ford Car

53 Lowrider

Junior Member
Can anyone suggest a two chamber master brake cylinder that will bolt in to my '53 coupe? I have an automatic transmission and live in a mountain community. To go almost anywhere requires an elevation drop of about 2000 feet in three twisty miles, riding the brakes all the way. I would feel better with a split system, front and back. Thanks! Frank E
 
Third Generation sells a Mustang three bolt mount which has a 1" bore.

https://thirdgenauto.com/product/new-early-ford-bolt-pattern-mustang-type-dual-reservoir-master-cylinder/

Note that, as discussed here a few times, that dual or tandem master cylinders are not hard shaft operated for the rear brakes. the rears are actuated by pressure from the front circuit. The sketch below shows this.

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Note that the stock Ford master cylinder bore is 1-1/16". The Mustang bore is 1". This decrease in bore will make the pedal effort lessen but will increase the stroke so the pedal will be closer to the floor. It's very important to get rid of all slack in the pushrod and brake adjustments to keep the pedal as high as possible. The comparison below shows this.

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Bottom line is with a dual or tandem bore cylinder, if the rear circuit fails you'll still have good braking with the fronts. If the front circuit fails you'll get a big increase in stroke and may run out of it, pedal on the floor, before the rear brakes work then it's time to pull the emergency brake and down shift for engine braking.
 
I had ASE heavy and light brake licenses. I had something like 16 of those ASE licensees. I let all that stuff go when I retired. I was a mechanic for 30-years in a phone company fleet, when we still had some single cylinder master cylinders, even on the great big F800 trucks were still single systems. We had at times close to 400 vehicles and we kept them at least 15 years. We changed the fluid every two-years. We serviced them every 3-months but then after years they switch us to six-months regardless of the mileage to save money. Every service we had to pull the drums off; we pulled back the wheel cylinder boots to see if the pistons were starting to leak. We always kept a look at the rearend of the master cylinders, when they got old, they start to leak a little down the boosters. when they started doing this it was time for a rebuild, we were way ahead of any total failures in the brake systems. In 30-years we never had a brake system failure. I've always had complete faith in single brake systems if I maintained them. The problem is they sit around; the fluid gets moisture in them; it leaks out and pretty soon you have an empty master cylinder when you step on the pedal. If you just maintain them the way you were supposed to, they are perfectly safe to use. Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder, watch for leaks in the wheels cylinders and change all the fluid every two years. If your rubber pistons are old getting replace them. One hint is the fluid will turn "black" from little pieces of the rubber pistons. The fluid should always look clear, otherwise replace all the rubber pistons and flush out the fluid. We used to keep a stock of all the rubber pistons rather than replace wheel cylinders we rebuilt them. Even back then we were getting bad new cylinders, and we found it better to just rebuild the ones on the vehicles. One of the things you really had to watch for was the gasket on lids of the master cylinder, otherwise the fluid could splash out of them and empty the reservoir. There is nothing wrong with a single system, you just need to maintain it.

I been retired now for 15 years. I have about a dozen collector cars, and I have gotten so bad about checking the brake fluid. I've had a small stroke. I will need to rebuild the hydraulics in all on them if I even feel like driving them again. Except the '29 Model A with the mechanical brakes. That one I can let sit for years and the pedal is always good.
 
I will tell you that just substituting a dual master for a single is basically a bad idea. Brake "systems" are just that; systems that are engineered as a whole and not put together piecemeal. Just because you may be able to cobble something together that physically fits, doesn't mean that your brake system will be improved. Most likely, substituting mismatched parts will result in a system with inferior performance to a well maintained original system.

Unless you have the skills, experience, and time to engineer a complete new brake system for your vehicle, you will be better off making sure that the existing system is in tip-top shape. This includes not only actuating cylinders, brake shoes and drums, but hard and soft lines as well. I have lost brakes twice in my life, and both times, it was hard lines failing because of corrosion on older vehicles.

If what you are saying about your driving environment is true, you may be betting your well-being on your decision.
 
Thank you all for your great input. Based on what you have written, I will keep my brake system as designed. This was my first post, and it was very helpful!
 
If the driving situation is as bad as you present, I believe there are companies out there that offer brake system upgrades to front disk brakes that include a compatible master cylinder as well as the proper proportioning and residual valves. It will probably be quite a bit more costly with all the extra parts, but the engineering has already been done.

Upgrading to disc brakes can make sense, while just throwing a double master at it doesn't.
 
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