marvel mystery oil
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Art Newland
Well-known member
I recently purchased an 8BA for my 49 F1. The fellow bought it with intentions to replace a six cylinder in a 46 coupe. He didn't realize it wasn't going to be a straight across swap and other things would have to change to get the V8 in there. So for the last 6-7 years he would start it up on the test stand to show his buddies. For me it would miss and pop and snap and I could hear a valve snap shut after being stuck open. A few drops of MMO down the carb and a good shot in the fuel tank had it smoothed out in about 30 seconds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-BwooaXbqs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-BwooaXbqs
FrankWest
Well-known member
Naphtha is no longer CHEAP..I was surprised that last time I purchased it.
Art Newland
Well-known member
Hey Corley, have you ever been sorry you went cheap? 8^)
Clem Clement
Well-known member
I use low cost ATF from the dolla store. Just found a jug of Power steering fluid. the goes in next
YES, but not too often.
We've all got oil stories I guess. I've got a '99 Vette, and on a long trip it came due for an oil change, so I pulled into one of those quick change places. They didn't have the Mobil One (Full synthetic recommended by Chevrolet, and I've always used in it), so I let them put in some Amsoil full synthetic. After about 100 miles, it developed a tic-tic valve lifter issue. When I got home, (about 2000 miles later and still tic tic-ing), I replaced the Amsoil with Mobil One, and in about 100 miles, the tic tic went away and hasn't been back since.
It probably had nothing to do with the oil used, but it COULD have, so most people would probably claim Mobil One is better than Amsoil. Personally, I doubt that, and attribute it to coinkydink.
Now I bet if only I had added a $7 quart of MMO, (which by the way, I've been told is excellent for sewing machines and warts), I'm sure all my problems would have dissolved into lovely bliss. Since I did not do that, owning to my CAMO nature, we'll never know for sure. ;~)
FrankWest
Well-known member
Funny stuff..
Maybe mind over matter??
Still I think Thinner oil is good sometimes because it wets the parts better than heavy oil.
A solvent like Napthta could unstick valves and other motor parts just like it unsticks clock and watch movements...I have witnessed it work there on old stuck movements.
I wonder how much Naphtha an engine could take.,m it does evaporate.
Maybe mind over matter??
Still I think Thinner oil is good sometimes because it wets the parts better than heavy oil.
A solvent like Napthta could unstick valves and other motor parts just like it unsticks clock and watch movements...I have witnessed it work there on old stuck movements.
I wonder how much Naphtha an engine could take.,m it does evaporate.
Just thinking here, (something I don't do too often), but does Naphtha (sp) actually evaporate out of MMO? Would, perhaps, the molicules of the Naphtha be surrounded by the oils molicules and stay in suspention? Otherwise, if one left the lid off of a bottle of MMO, wouldn't about 25% of it just evaporate? (Or would the bottle just overflow with dead flys, attracted to the nice smell? Oh no, MMO might be hazzardous to my health, if it kills flys! Never drink the Koolaid folks! Personally, I wouldn't even sniff the stuff!)
So, about that thinner oil. Most manufacturers now day recommend thinner oils in engines. Most seem to recommend something like 5w - 20w. Therefore, my brain says thinner might be good. But, my brain also tells me that might be why they sell thinner oil, and I should probably not try to create it with some witches brew. (A little mineral oil, a little mineral spirits, some lard, a sprinkle of other crap, oh wait, that is what the NTSB found MMO contains, so maybe I CAN home brew it!). I think I'll just buy thinner oil ready to go instead of the brew my own route by adding MMO to heavier oil. But I suppose that's just me being CAMO.
But wait! Who said thin oil is good in an old model A engine anyway? Hum, I'm not so sure with the older technology (that's a big word I use now and the, I'm not sure what it means, but it impressed some folks a lot). Anyway, model As seem to be better suited to a bit thicker oil, something around 20w - 30w, with their greater tolerances. That's just what I thought just now anyway... You go ahead and think on it too though, two brains are sometimes better than one, right?
PS. Just remembered, I saw some greasy looking stuff on the road from a dead possum, that seemed pretty slippery. Please just ignore all the above, I'm now cojitating on grinding up banana peals to make a new motor oil additive, after all, banana peals are pretty slippery. (At $7 a bottle, I might get rich and move up to restoring Chevies instead of Fords! ) Need a catchy name for it, maybe "Nanna Piss", or something like that. Now that brings up another problem, is "piss" a dirty word or not? It was when I was little, but now days,,,,,,,
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Lotta people like it! I have never seen the need to use it! And the ole model A runs fine!
Just try it once in your gas. You might be surprised. It will not do any damage.
I add MMO to the gas of my '31 A (& '29 Chevy) and never have to worry about vapor lock
. Funny thing: I'm constantly checking my Zenith carb on my "A" for gas leaks.
And the only thing I find underneath the carb, when checking, is a light film of MMO...?!?
Bob-A
Bob;
I will keep it in mind as a suggestion. At present, too many other things on this old girl are drawing my attention. Regards.........
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
oldforder
Senior Member
I put MMO in the gas in all my old cars and my OPE. But it didn't keep the A from vapor locking last week when it was really hot. Of course I also had an in line filter on it also. Yes it was a fuel problem, and not electrical, as I took off the line, and no fuel came to the carb, but it came out of the sediment bowl. I have now removed the filter, and covered the line, and no more problem. I have never had a car vapor lock before . Yes it is non alcohol gas. And yes I will continue to use MMO.