Marvel Classic Motor Oil

I think I have a sticky valve, can I slowly dump a little mmo down the carb at at about 1500rpm, or would it be better to just put it in the tank?
 
Floyd said:
Rotorwrench is the prize winner for today!
With just a wee bit of chemistry background, I am always skeptical of any snake oil type products. However there are a few that are good and have been proven over many decades. One of which is MMO. Think back to the real old days when motor oil was poorly refined (lots of long chain molecules) and cold running conditions ( moisture in the oil) and you got sludge in the bottom and carbon buildup in the top. Fuel from even worse with lots of Sulphur.
MMO is made up of light oil, mineral sprits and versions of dichlorobenzene which is the main solvent which is known for softening carbon deposits and releasing them from metal surfaces. A form of boron is included as a detergent ( think ole timey Borax). The oil of wintergreen (the smell you get from MMO ) is Methyl salicylate and among many uses has properties of a penetrating oil and releasing corrosion on metallic surfaces. Put it all together with a colorful dye and you get a very useful product . A more modern product for today's fuel injection engines and especially DFI engines is the carbon cleaning solvent from Lubrizol which is the material marketed as Techron , a very good product.
MMO is still a good product for many applications. It does work and does no harm.
Click to expand...
That Techron can sometimes free up a resistance type fuel sender after a couple of cans.
 
corvette8n said:
I think I have a sticky valve, can I slowly dump a little mmo down the carb at at about 1500rpm, or would it be better to just put it in the tank?
Click to expand...
I would do both for a sticky valve, down the carb for immediate application to the problem valve and in the tank for preventative measure.
 
Pdstark asks a real question. A valve, either intake or exhaust, will open because the cam shaft is going to push it up with solid force. The valve has no choice in this part of the operation. However when it comes time to close, only the spring force is involved in this action. Therefore if the valve is not moving freely in the guide, it may stick and close slowly or not close all the way. Now we have a situation of a valve that is slightly open at the wrong time. rough running, backfire , popping in exhaust can all happen depending on which valve is misbehaving . Many times it is intermittent ( always the most fun problem to chase down) and clear up depending on running conditions.
I will leave the discussion to those who have lots of experience in sticking valves, their symptoms and analysis.
 
flatjack9>>>Count me as a non-believer. I built my engine about 25 years ago and have many miles on it. Like 60,000 or so. Never has see a drop of MMO and I use 10W- 30 oil.>>>




My scrambled eggs have never seen a drop of MMO for regularity either. But that doesn't mean I'm a non-believer. 8^) Jack E/NJ
 
Here down under we are at a tremendous disadvantage. We do not have any MMO outlets
Often wondered why it cant be sourced here. Tried once to have it sent from USA but not able due to restrictions.
also have survived so far without it. just thought as an additive could be of use.
Phil NZ
 
Funny, and I'm there with so many of you but this thread was started about a Motor Oil, not an additive. I had never heard of the motor oil that Marvel has introduced until this thread came out. I can fully see how something slippery added to today's gasoline (or oil) can help out with our vintage valve in block engines. Sometimes I add 2 stroke oil which is designed to be used in a combustion chamber to keep things oily. Today's low sulphur 'on road' diesel suffers from some of the same things. If this new Marvel motor oil is indeed superior I can see running it in my unfiltered woodie and panel truck. It's about 4.00 more per quart (16 bucks) and since I live on the new Martha's vineyard of the west coast, I pay that for a cheeseburger and a beer at the local tavern. Much better to dump that cash into helping my flatheads than to clog my few remaining arteries with beef fat and cheese.
 
MMO is currently available in new england at walmart by the quart for $3.88. much less expensive than buying a gallon.
 
“I pay that for a cheeseburger and a beer at the local tavern. Much better to dump that cash into helping my flatheads than to clog my few remaining arteries with beef fat and cheese.”....

I’m in the same boat as you!......I skip the cheeseburger and put the beer in my tank and MMO in the cars’.!!.......Mark
 
We had an intermittent problem with a sticky intake valve on the Wright R-2600 14 cylinder rotary engine powering our TBM torpedo bomber. When it stuck, combustion gases would blast into the intake manifold, the engine would immediately die, and things got really quiet and scary. It would start right back up, but that doesn't make it ok. We fired it up on the ground and slowly fed Marvel Mystery Oil through the carburetor air intake. It seemed to help. A rebuild occurred in the near future.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
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