Cheers Lads.
Here's a little update - when I say "Bonnet" you guys say "hood"
Ok, so I've been away for a couple of weeks, and still havn't completed the registration process. I have to take the car for inspection next Tues, so after that things should move along better.
A couple of things to update:
I finally managed to get a 2nd ignition set together. I had to keep borrowing the good ignition setup off Old Rusty. In the end I used the dizzy off the 59A, set up with a single set of NORS points, NOS genuine flatty wires and a crab cap. I did set it up with a really pretty red crab cap, but it wouldn't fire and run. It was popping and banging and trying to run backwards. Careful inspection of the cap showed a crack internally between the king lead input and the No.5 terminal. Substitution of another cap fixed it. Not driven it properly on the road yet, but it sounds all right in the garage.
Next job was to work out how to fill the hole in the roof.
At Chimay I inspected Simon's 34. He filled the roof with a vinyl covered steel insert, sikaflexed in. He said he used some instructions from Kev Elliot in Custom Car, which said use a mk1 Astra bonnet, turned front to back. He said he couldn't find a used one so bought a new replacement panel and it worked a treat.
So using that basic idea as a guide I thought I'd give it a go, but start from first principles.
Here's the roof opening with the wooden bows still intact. These are worth keeping because you tack the headlining to them.
I wanted to make a template to show the curvature of the roof. I had a brainwave -
That's it - use a piece of ply with screws screwed through until they just touch the metal surface, or the wooden bows. This worked really well, because each screw is finely adjustable, plus it was cheap and quick to make.
I took it to the local scrappy (Mick Merrill for anyone local) and tried it on various bonnets. Why bonnets, I hear you say, and not roofs?? Well, two reasons, if a bonnet will do it, it's easily removed and transported, plus the cars are stacked two high so the lower roofs are inaccessible and the upper level too high. Bonnets are easy.
So around I went, trying this and that, and there were only a few with an area big enough, without flutes or ridges, and only really one, that came close to the profile as dictated by my super accurate template.
Mondeo. Not the early one, the later one styled more like a focus. The bonnet was a bit damaged at the front so he let me have it for nothing. (top bloke Mick).
Here's the bonnet at home
And with the template in place, though it's hard to show how well it fits.
Like Kev found, it fits better back to front.
I cut through the outer skin and chopped out the inner panels. I had to carefully trim the inner panels so I could break the gluey blobs holding inner and outer together.
A few pics:
I then removed the gluey lumps with a chisel and reduced the residue with a scraper.
Then I slung the panel on for a test fit.
Not bad, not bad at all. Pretty good really.
I drew around the opening from the inside and then trimmed around with a generous allowance, leaving room for a final trim.
I then really studied the roof opening and worked out what I had. There is a hidem type metal band around the opening, with two screws and nuts at each corner. I removed the nuts and pried the banding out. It comes out in three parts. I removed the remnants of the canvas top material. The opening is in pretty good shape, the tacking strip seems to be ok.
This is as far as I have got, for now, I have to decide exactly how to attach the panel, whether to make it temporary or permanent, and I need some vinyl to cover it.
But here is a parting shot with the new lid resting in place.
I don't think I could have got a better profile if I had wheeled one up from scratch.
Mart.