Manually cranking 1940 Ford V8 /engine in car?

C

Capuano

Member
Removed my crank mounted fan. Purchased 1 3/8" 6 point socket to try to turn ratchet nut. Socket OD to big to fit on ratchet nut? OK how do you turn over the engine manually with the spark plugs removed when it is in the car? Is a ratchet tool out there?????
 
Thank you very much. I just put in a new starter motor. Other than that the car started and turned over easily. I will remove the starter motor and try again.
 
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I just put in a new starter motor. Other than that the car started and turned over easily. I will remove the starter motor and try again.

Well this is beginning to make a bunch more sense now.
If the engine turned over before you installed the new starter and now it does not... has to be something related to the starter and / or installation thereof.
 
Just a note of caution. You would NEVER attempt to start a flathead with a socket on the crank nut. The original nut (made to hand crank) had a way to disengage and kick the crank extension out when fired up. All of us have moved the crank with a socket when a running engine was not a possibility. It could be real exciting on an engine that could start with a breaker bar!
 
Ford used a "ratchet nut" in cars and truck from 1928 thru 1953. It allowed a hand crank to turn the engine over, and disconnect it when the engine started so as to prevent damage to the person doing the cranking. If you need one, they are available in the 6319 category with a "B" prefix for early engines, and 81A for the rest. The same nut was used even after there was no front access hole in the body or radiator.
 
Your on the right track. Go back to what you did just before things went bad.
With the plugs out that engine should turn easily with a socket and breaker bar.
Please keep us posted.
 
The long-crankshaft engines, 1939 up, use a crank nut that is 1 1/8 hex, not the 1/38 early one.
Most good brand ones will go on there but due to short hex within the socket most only partially grip so you need to turn carefully. You should be able to rotate the engine within the limitations of the grip.
 
Sorry I didn't get here sooner. To turn an engine, with out crank access, jack one rear tire up off the ground. Easier of course without plugs. Place trans in gear (low for ease, high for more movement). The elevated tire is now your crank. Good Luck

Forgot to mention wheel chocks, and o'course hand brake released.
 
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A bones said:
Sorry I didn't get here sooner. To turn an engine, with out crank access, jack one rear tire up off the ground. Easier of course without plugs. Place trans in gear (low for ease, high for more movement). The elevated tire is now your crank. Good Luck

Forgot to mention wheel chocks, and o'course hand brake released.
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Actually, it's the opposite. Put the trans in high gear for easier turning and less movement. In low gear the engine turns roughly 3 turns for one turn of the driveshaft. So if you use the wheel to turn the driveshaft one turn, you will have turned the engine 3 turns (with great effort).
 
40 Deluxe said:
Actually, it's the opposite. Put the trans in high gear for easier turning and less movement. In low gear the engine turns roughly 3 turns for one turn of the driveshaft. So if you use the wheel to turn the driveshaft one turn, you will have turned the engine 3 turns (with great effort).
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You got it right. Thanks for the fix. Pops always asked me if I was left handed, or did I carry my lunch:rolleyes:. He knew. BOTH
 
Gentlemen, thank you all for the responses. It is appreciated since I am just learning and what to do the work myself. I jumped ahead trying to use the crank ratchet nut. I have put back the fan and was able to crank the engine but like raising the rear wheel to turn the engine slowly in high gear to try and find TDC. May try bent brass rod or pressure/vacuum method before trying to remove head. Will communicate with Bubba on any details of the bent brass rod.
 
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