Mallory ignition 12 volt coil.

With all due respect, "Check with Mallory" is probably not possible these days.

You want about 4 amps across the points. Apply "Ohm's Law" and figure out what is required.
 
dig into the web; if you have the dissy part number it will be there along with a lot of stuff that they dont openly talk about like the need for filters with generators
 
I have tried all the major parts stores and no one carries Bosch blue 00012 coils or can get one. Napa, Auto zone, O'Reilly etc. If you know of one let me know. I'm not interested in E-Bay, etc.
 
Update: It appears my problem is the coil is overheating. I changed over to a Mallory coil I previously had trouble with and it started right up. I left it running for about a half hour and it died. Same symptoms as the Bosh blue coil 00012. In both cases the coils were very hot. I let it sit overnight and this morning it started right up again. Let it idle for about another half hour and it died and wouldn't restart. Coil again very hot. These coils are supposed to have an internal resistor. I'm stumped.
 
flathead4rd: In Dec. 1919 I was having the same problem as you. I called Mallory Tech in ElPasso, TX and spoke with Bret Kugler. My engine is an 8ba on 12V.

He told me the following: "I recommend running a Mallory coil # 29219 along with an MSD part number 8214 ballast resistor. I would also run a circuit guard which is also Mallory part number 29731. In a later response Bret said: "The Unilite Module will last longer if you run a ballast. The Mallory coil (29219) has a resistance of 1.4 ohms. The Mallory module needs at least 2 ohms of resistance for it to function properly. 1.4 + .8(ohms) will give 2.2 ohms of resistance. A Mallory module needs to run at about 6 amps." What Bret told me surprised me as the 29219 coil has an internal ballast which means, I thought, that it did not require and external ballast resister.

I strongly suggest you call that Tech number and get up-to-date info. I also am using TAYLOR Spiro Wound 8mm spark plug wires. Let us know how you make out. PS: I eventually switched to Pertronix unit with good results.

I have a 292126 and a 29219 Mallory coils if you need them. Also have BERU ZS172 12V coil with 3.3 ohms primary resistance if you need it. The BERU is the equivalent of BOSCH
00012 coil.
Please, let us know how you make out.
 
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19Fordy: Thanks for your quick and very informative reply. Also your very generous offers. I have the BERU ZS-172 coil. Do you also run an external ballast resistor with it also or is that a internal 3.3 ohms built in?

Will keep you updated with my progress.

Thanks, John
 
flathd4rd: Be sure to carefully read thru the thread below where BUBBA (RIP) says the
ZS-172 coil does not need an external resistor if used with the Unilite.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/printthread.php?t=259796 THE MATH IS AS FOLLOWS:
I=V/R 12V /3.3 ohms = 3.63 amps. 14V/3.3 ohms = 4.24 amps. The 14 V takes into consideration the alternator when charging.

I have also read where BUBBA said you can use the Mallory 29219 coil (1.4 ohms) plus a .75-1.50 ohm ballast resistor your Unilite will work fine. The math is:
14V/2.9 total ohms =4.82 AMPS. 12V/2.9 ohms = 4.13 AMPS.

So, you can see the BERU coil AMPS is very close to the Mallory coil AMPS.
My personal thought is that an external resistor IS NOT needed with the BERU coil.

I have spent the entire morning trying to figure out what coil and ballast resistor is best for a Unilite distributor. There is tons on misinformation out there which seems to contradict each other. I wonder what the Mallory tech recommends?

Here's a whole bunch more of material about this worth reading.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/542066728/?q=unilite+ballast+resistor&o=relevance&c[node]=5

I just found some really "solid gold" info. about this here:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274008&highlight=bubba+unilite

Please keep us informed. Thanks, JIM
 
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I have a Unilite the instructions indicate that a Mallory #28127 but doesn't spec the ohms.


545075
 

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It's a shame that the ohms resistance for PN 28127 isn't provided. Oh, how I wish things were still made in the USA.
 
I have a Mallory Breakerless ignition n my car. It was always hard to start, and finally I couldn't get it started at all. Jim Linder recommended that I install a new 29219 coil.
Mallory also recommends that you install an MSD 8214 resistor with this coil if using for a street application. Their actual recommendations:

When using with a Mallory Unilite or Magnetic Breakerless Distributor in a performance application a ballast resistor is not needed. However, for applications that are primarily street driven, reliability improves if the MSD PN 8214 is added to the coil + circuit.

I purchased the MSD 8214 resistor that Mallory recommended for the new 29219 coil for street driven applications. Once installed, I was able to start the car with some effort , using starting fluid and working to keep it running. This was dramatically different than the way it ran when I had the resistor jumpered out. I used an alligator clip to test it out on the fly with the car running. When the MSD8214 resistor was in the circuit with the 29219 coil, the car didn't run well and was difficult to keep running at at idle. When I jumpered out the resistor the car ran great. It starts right up without using starting fluid with the resistor jumpered out. It seems that the coil just doesn't produce a strong enough spark with the recommended MSD 8214 resistor. So I have installed a permanent jumper wire around the resistor. I have ben driving the car for 2 summers like that and it starts easily now.

Here is a thread with my experience:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302227

Hope this helps.
 
I read 1.4 Ωs with two quality VOMs. A cheap analog gave me approximately the same.

This is a picture of the resistor from the net. I have one in my '40.


545098
 
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