J Franklin
Well-known member
Use alkalid enamel, it will flaten out and oxidize in about a couple of years.
You'll end up melting your tires.
Most of my paint work has been with flat military green paint. What they called lusterless. I am sure you can work with flatening agents to get that flat, almost chaulky finish. And, if you wnt with a slightly lighter shade by adding some white to the color and painting the top surfaces with the lighter shade and blending it or feathering it down onto the sides, you would get a sun faded appearance IMO. You got nothing to loose, experiment until you are happy with the results. Primer first, play with the paint and lightly sand or scuff up through the top layer until you get to some primer and just play with it.
I have painted a lot of cars and to me, fake patina looks just that, fake. Low gloss is easy to achieve with either a flattening agent in the color or a coat of matte luster clear. I have a 33 phaeton with the original top and a repaint from the 40s and I just leave it alone. Pictures in an album.
Good luck.
Thank you Mike! Couldn't resist another repaint adventure before I go back to some boring woodwork in the shopThis is my current avatar tonner that got the H six and the box, running boards and rears from 'Uncle Oscar'. Oscar was pretty rusty from Western Washington(35 years unde a big leaf maple) and as you can see in the background, my avatar truck was from The arid East Side of the Cascades. (Where they grimace and call us folks 'Coasties).
The rear fender was yellow
So right-on GB. Pro auto body guys cringe when I tell them how i got to the end finish. I had seen alot of Faux rust and sanding through new finishes, then clear coated that miss the mark. This project was pieced together from an rusty original green truck cab that was a rat condo & the rest of the body came from all over the US, if not painted it would have looked like one of grandma’s old patch work quilts……….