Making a head puller.

jaguar6165 said:
Luckily my problem isn't the valve side so I will be staying clear of them. Going to swing by the hardware store and pick up some better plastic wedges. I read in another thread that someone used the plastic type for felling trees. I'm just nervouse to use metal screw drivers or pry bars. This is my first attempt so I don't know how much abuse the head and block can actually take.
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'how much abuse'...Not much !
I just knew not to do the 'prying thing', when I tried unsuccessfully to separate an original B head from its rusted block.
But, I went right ahead with various implements . It just moved a tiny bit and I thought that I had it made, not realizing that it had snapped if half:(
Back in the day, I needed the money and several guys wanted to buy that head...whaaaah If you are bound/determined to do this, good luck :)

BTW...probably obvious to lots, but try to remove all studs that will come out before trying to pull / lift head. More studs removed , easier head removed.
 
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Yeah I attempted the double nut on the front studs the front corner didn't budge and that is where the head isn't lifting. I just picked up a plastic wedge and will give that a try with the dead blow after work.

I did pick up a new set of studs which I'm sure will be another project once the head is off. Figure I should clean it up and replace the studs then drop on a hi comp head.
Any tricks to lubing the new stubs to avoid any issues in the future?
 
jaguar6165 said:
Yeah I attempted the double nut on the front studs the front corner didn't budge and that is where the head isn't lifting. I just picked up a plastic wedge and will give that a try with the dead blow after work.

I did pick up a new set of studs which I'm sure will be another project once the head is off. Figure I should clean it up and replace the studs then drop on a hi comp head.
Any tricks to lubing the new stubs to avoid any issues in the future?
Click to expand...

You will get lots of opinions of what to do to stop seizing on bottom of installed studs. IMO, and use, I use never seize ....on the stud bottoms...that DO NOT open up into water jacket !
On the holes thru to water jacket, I use permatex to seal and help with future removal. Research subject and you will have to select what you think is practical and works :)

BTW..whatever you do to 'clean out' stud threads in block, IMO, DO NOT use just any old thread chaser :eek: !
 
Finally some success. After smack a wedge around it broke free. Now on to removing the studs. One double butted right out so far two others don't want to budge. I'll have to get a longer wrench on the to see if some leverage will help.

Any pointers if I hit them with some heat?
 
Here's a picture of an additional puller I made to help lift the front of the head. I probably did a bit of overkill on this, as a heavy piece of angle iron should be sufficient. If fact shortly after I posted this someone posted a picture of their angle iron remover, and that's the way I'd go if I had to make another one.
 

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Clem Clement said:
Rainmaker used to make very nice ones
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Hi Clem, thanks for the memories! The famous Rainmaker puller is now sold everywhere as manufactured by Bill Stipe. A year or so ago I completed the latest design of my combination head and distributor puller. The new puller will do both jobs for half the money and is unique and compact enough to carry in your tool box on tours. All I need now is a younger Rainmaker to pedal the new idea. Anyone?
Rainmaker Ron
 
Doing a search I had seen your design and came across a few others. I went for the simpler flat plate with bolts pushing on the studs. Thought I may have to make another like yours for the water pump area but luckily the wedge worked. Now I just need to clean the block and change the studs. I want to make sure everything is new and clean before I drop on a hi comp head.
 
is the center stud on the driver side sleeved for a reason? all the other studs look about the same but that one has a thicker sleeve around it.
 
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