Main crank bearing

P

pawillie

Member
Dropped the pan on my 29 Tudor to adjust the mains and to my surprise one of the bolts on the center cap appears to have been stripped. It is tight enough to require a heavy wrench to turn either way put will not torque and too tight to take out. Cap is tight but could be the cause of eating up my timing gears. Do I drill it out?
 
Only the rear main has the nuts, the center and front have square headed bolts. One of the bolts appears to be stripped. Turns very tight both ways but won't torque or spin out.
 
I'm pretty sure the center caps have castellated nuts too. The driver's side is behind the water inlet. The passenger side is within the valve chamber. You have to take the valve cover off to access it.
 
Yes square head bolts at crankshaft end BUT castellated nuts with cotter pins at upper end as mentioned by Will N in post #4.

With cotter pins still in place and no wrench on the upper NUTS, square bolts will turn very hard in both directions.

Same same with mainbearing #1.


Main # 3 is same same setup only upper bolts are "captive" so they do not turn. The BOLT can be removed, once nuts are removed if flywheel housing is removed.

If flywheel housing is installed, the bolts can only be pushed up 1/2 to 3/4 inch then the bolts will be blocked by the flywheel housing.
 
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There is supposed to be a little nub on one of the corners of the square end that indicates the direction of cotter pin hole at the threaded end .
 
The passenger side (right) center main bolt nut is in the valve chamber and you need to remove the valve cover and the distributor drive to get to it.
 
Oh my, I'm new at this set-up and had no idea there were nuts at end of bolts. Makes sense for threads in cast block most likely would stand the 80lb torque. Now to find the nuts. You helped me with the one in valve chamber, how about the others?
 
The nuts should be removed from the bolts, the bolts fit snugly in the block to keep the cap properly aligned with the block. Nut for center main is behind the valve chamber cover, remove cotter pin and wrench the nut off of the main bolt. Other bolt for center main is between the center cylinders below water elbow.
 
pawillie said:
Oh my, I'm new at this set-up and had no idea there were nuts at end of bolts. Makes sense for threads in cast block most likely would stand the 80lb torque. Now to find the nuts. You helped me with the one in valve chamber, how about the others?
Click to expand...

See post #4
 
Will N said:
I never knew that!
Click to expand...

I remember seeing the "nubs" but didn't connect it with the orientation of the cotter pin hole.

I assumed someone got sloppy with a hammer?

The day I can say I know EVERYTHING about the Model A has not arrived yet!

Joe K
 
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