lubrication
- Thread starter rob63mess
- Start date
bogdonj
Well-known member
600 weight for ****** and rear end! for normal A's... if you have a AA truck then i'm not 100% sure if they use something different.. Engine oil can vary and other will give you their response! questions.. Has your engine been recently restored or is it original? ZDDP talk will start up i'm sure!
Last edited:
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Do a search, it has been discussed many times previously. Lots of good answers. I'm using 30W non-detergent, and 600w (or equivealent) in the trans and rear end. Opinions vary greatly
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
shall
Member
I use 15W40 (either Advance brand or Rotella) in my 29 engine that is available in Newark at the Advance store (maybe on SR13 and also on 79? I am in Pataskala so I don't get over that way much). ****** I use straight STP oil treatment and rear end I use a 50/50 mix of STP and 85/140 gear oil (Valvoline I think). Many a thread on here about this if you care to validate my questionable memory!!
shall
Member
Also note....A misconception is 600W is the weight or viscosity but this is untrue. 600W was originally about 240 weight oil. 600W is simply the name Ford gave to it so you could only purchase it from your Ford dealer. Unfortunatly current suppliers have no restriction on what they can call 600W. (stolen from some google search)
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
Remembering that any oil is far better than anything made in the day, any make of automotive grade oil will work fine.
criswellnk
Senior Member
There was a real nice article in Skinned Knuckles last year (October 2011, vol. 36 - no. 3, issue 423) on what is the correct gear oil for your old car. While the actual viscosity/weight of what gear lube should be used was not really discussed, one of the main points that was discussed was the gear lube containing sulfur and phosphorous and their detrimental effects on "yellow metal"meaning brass and bronze.
They had talked about the differnt ratings for gear lube (GL-1 through GL-5) and which one should be used if they are going into a rear axle or transission that contained any brass/bronze bushings. The gear lubes that were listed as being available were the GL-1, GL-4 and GL-5 (GL-2 and GL-3 were listed as being obsolete). If there are any of the "yellow metal" bushings in the axle or transmission both the GL-4 and GL-5 gear lubes should be avoided and only the GL-1 gear lube should be used. They went on to say that the detrimental effects/wear were less if the bushings in question were bronze instead of brass, but damage would still occur. Some of the new GL-5 gear lube does not contain the "active sulfur" which is detrimental to the "yellow metal" and the manufacturers have started to state that on their packaging as copper/brass safe.
Gear lubes and their content of sulfur and phosphorous had been discussed at some length on the forum of the MTFCA. This being more of an issue with the model T rear axle and their use of bronze thrust washers as a replacement for the original babbitt thrust washers. The only place that this would be of a concern with the model A is in the transmission due to the use of bronze bushings for the reverse idler gear and the bronze thrust washer for the earlier 1928 transmission cases. So that brinngs up the question about the 600W that the vendors are selling; What is it's rating GL-1, GL-4 or GL-5? And is the 600W sold by the vendors safe for use with the previously mentioned yellow metal?
They had talked about the differnt ratings for gear lube (GL-1 through GL-5) and which one should be used if they are going into a rear axle or transission that contained any brass/bronze bushings. The gear lubes that were listed as being available were the GL-1, GL-4 and GL-5 (GL-2 and GL-3 were listed as being obsolete). If there are any of the "yellow metal" bushings in the axle or transmission both the GL-4 and GL-5 gear lubes should be avoided and only the GL-1 gear lube should be used. They went on to say that the detrimental effects/wear were less if the bushings in question were bronze instead of brass, but damage would still occur. Some of the new GL-5 gear lube does not contain the "active sulfur" which is detrimental to the "yellow metal" and the manufacturers have started to state that on their packaging as copper/brass safe.
Gear lubes and their content of sulfur and phosphorous had been discussed at some length on the forum of the MTFCA. This being more of an issue with the model T rear axle and their use of bronze thrust washers as a replacement for the original babbitt thrust washers. The only place that this would be of a concern with the model A is in the transmission due to the use of bronze bushings for the reverse idler gear and the bronze thrust washer for the earlier 1928 transmission cases. So that brinngs up the question about the 600W that the vendors are selling; What is it's rating GL-1, GL-4 or GL-5? And is the 600W sold by the vendors safe for use with the previously mentioned yellow metal?
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
I used used oil for my last oil change, I figured it was the "green" choice ----even the filter was used.
Mobilgear 680 for gear oil ----got a 5 gal bucket as a "tip" from a Benz customer that owned a construction company.
Mobilgear 680 for gear oil ----got a 5 gal bucket as a "tip" from a Benz customer that owned a construction company.
garrisonm89@yahoo.com
BANNED
It seems to me that if you drained your used oil out and put some other used oil in, that wouldn't be the "green" choice. You still have to dump whatever used oil you took out of vehicle in the creek somewhere. Or do you save your used oil from your vehicle for oil changes on other vehicles or the same vehicle. Now that would be the real "green" choice. Don't forget to rinse your drain bucket with gas then dump that in the creek.
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
It seemed to be wasting the oil to just pour it into the waste oil heater tank ---it had 1 year and only 25 miles ---still clean and new ---gasoline and used oil is too valuable to just dump in a creek around here