lubeing leaf spring
- Thread starter Brendan
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Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
oil can— squirt oil up into crossmember and down the leaves and don’t forget the lubrication hole in the hand crank guide (later cars)
I used atf because it was in the oil can.
then I went for a ride and oiled again— yes it can make a mess
of course when the springs are lubricated the weak shock absorber shows up with bouncing
I used atf because it was in the oil can.
then I went for a ride and oiled again— yes it can make a mess
of course when the springs are lubricated the weak shock absorber shows up with bouncing
As alexiskai suggests, the answer will somewhat depend if you are willing to remove the springs and disassemble them.
If you can remove and disassemble, there are a few possibilities. Simple grease between the leaves, a grease-soaked strip of burlap have been suggested. An advantage of disassembling is that you can clean up the leaves by grinding out the gouges that sometimes appear on the top of the leaves, and beveling the undersides of each leaf. You can also check for any hidden broken leaves and replace them. I painted the mating surfaces (top and bottom) of my spring leaves with graphite paint before reassembling, and they seem to be quite slippery.
Another advantage of removing the springs is that it's relatively straightforward to renew the spring shackle bushings with the spring out of the car.
If you leave the springs in the car, you need to find a lubricant that can penetrate between the leaves. If it was me I'd be tempted to start with a spray silicone lube, almost all manufacturers (Permatex, CRC, Liquid Wrench, even Ace) have silicone spray lubricants. Regular WD-40 is probably not a real good choice, but WD-40 silicone should work OK.
If you can remove and disassemble, there are a few possibilities. Simple grease between the leaves, a grease-soaked strip of burlap have been suggested. An advantage of disassembling is that you can clean up the leaves by grinding out the gouges that sometimes appear on the top of the leaves, and beveling the undersides of each leaf. You can also check for any hidden broken leaves and replace them. I painted the mating surfaces (top and bottom) of my spring leaves with graphite paint before reassembling, and they seem to be quite slippery.
Another advantage of removing the springs is that it's relatively straightforward to renew the spring shackle bushings with the spring out of the car.
If you leave the springs in the car, you need to find a lubricant that can penetrate between the leaves. If it was me I'd be tempted to start with a spray silicone lube, almost all manufacturers (Permatex, CRC, Liquid Wrench, even Ace) have silicone spray lubricants. Regular WD-40 is probably not a real good choice, but WD-40 silicone should work OK.
Brenden,
Lube with springs in the car.
Jack up the front end, remove the wheels after placing jack stands under the frame. Lower the front axle as far as the shocks will permit and then spray both sides of the springs. Messy so bring a roll of towels.
Repeat moving to the rear.
I've used both John Deer 'Graphite Lubricate' or Kano Labs 'Penephite' successfully. Best,
Lube with springs in the car.
Jack up the front end, remove the wheels after placing jack stands under the frame. Lower the front axle as far as the shocks will permit and then spray both sides of the springs. Messy so bring a roll of towels.
Repeat moving to the rear.
I've used both John Deer 'Graphite Lubricate' or Kano Labs 'Penephite' successfully. Best,
Werner
Well-known member
Everything written above is good. The best approach is the laborious one: taking the assembly apart. After brushing off the rust, it is recommended to apply a coating of MoS2 dry-film lubricant (z. B.: OKS 521) or graphite grease for long-lasting lubrication. Afterward, wrap it with grease tape and then cover that with a layer of thin leather for the sake of appearance. That setup will last a quarter of a century.
The easier method is to use a spring spreader to pry the individual leaves apart and inject ATF—or, better yet, thick hypoid oil—between them. You will need to repeat this process once a year.
Good luck, Brendan!
The easier method is to use a spring spreader to pry the individual leaves apart and inject ATF—or, better yet, thick hypoid oil—between them. You will need to repeat this process once a year.
Good luck, Brendan!
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Bruce of MN
Well-known member
Any suggestion on what the US name for "grease tape"?
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
Dry springs act like a friction shock.
Well lubricated springs need properly operating shocks.
Automatic transmission fluid penetrates quite well.
Well lubricated springs need properly operating shocks.
Automatic transmission fluid penetrates quite well.
Werner
Well-known member
Guten Morgen Bruce,
this is a roll of linen fabric tape, approximately 2 inches wide, that has been impregnated with hot-applied anti-corrosion grease.
Please have a look at:
https://mike-sander.de/produkt/mike-sanders-fettband-5-cm-x-10-m/
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Spring covers are the best way to maintain lubrication in the front & rear springs. I initially wet the springs while they were in the car with WD40 to start some capillary action. Then I installed the spring covers with their felt reservoirs saturated with STP. The difference in the ride is fantastic.
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They will fit better if you feed the spring clamp bolt thru the slit in the side if the gaiter.
Mine
Yours
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Tacoma Bob
Well-known member
Yup...same here. Kroil (kano) Penephite was designed to for spraying horizontally.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Slip Plate #1 is the best lube for metal on metal friction surfaces. Truckers use it on the 5th wheel. Graphite is good stuff. Spring assemblies have to be disassembled and cleaned prior to application but once it's done, it's good for years of ordinary service. A quart of it is around 40 bucks on amazon. It may be less expensive elsewhere but I haven't looked very much.
That’s what I used on my springs when I rebuilt them.
jeepguy1948
Well-known member
Slip Plate is the way to go but I think that the spring pack has to be dis assembled to apply it I don’t think that it will “wick” in. It is available in spray on and brush on.
You could use a leaf spreader as Werner shows in Post#7 and spray in Slip Plate.
alexiskai
Well-known member
That's what I did - pry the leaves apart with a flathead screwdriver, hammer in wood wedges to hold the gap open, then spray Penephite generously up into the gap. It carries rust out as it runs off and leaves the graphite behind.
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
Thanks, I should have been less lazy and looked at McMaster-Carr (the source for everything useful)
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/grease-tape/
old ugly
Well-known member
i have an early 28 that has the monkey motion cross shafts for the brakes. to give those intersections a little slipptivity i spray into them with motorcycle chain lube. with the little spray tube on it i can squirt it into those areas. it is sticky and stays on quite well.
that may be a quick way to lube a spring but i have not tried it.
no matter what you use to lube it and if you drive dirt roads a lot spring covers are best.
that may be a quick way to lube a spring but i have not tried it.
no matter what you use to lube it and if you drive dirt roads a lot spring covers are best.