Lowering a Model A

[bdave_mcc]

COOTER,

You have to cut your balls off, all 3, taper drill the steering arms for "B" balls and install the from the bottom. If you want to run mechanical brakes, build a stand-up to keep the actuating arm perpendicular to the backing plate. You will also have to connect your drag link from the inside, but that will be obvious. I can't remember exactly, but you may have to heat up your arms and bend them accordingly.

Dalton

I had to do the same thing in front, except used 32 perches to get the brake actuator support up higher. Like you said you sort of have to heat and manipulate the steering arms to clear the backing plates when turning. The drag link arm will also have to be bent to accommodate the new drag link angle and its probably best to use a shortened pitman arm. I did all this and had terrible bump steer with the violent angle of the drag link. The shortened arm helped tremendously.
On mine doing all this now had the tie rod rubbing the oil pan on a sharp turn. I put a dropped area in the center of the tie rod to clear the pan. Once you do that its too short plus you can no longer adjust your toe by simple rotating the rod. I cut the rod in half, used a left and right hand die to rethread the center ends of the now tie rodS and used an oem style tie rod adjuster to reconnect.
Just shows that once you do one thing its a snowball effect leading to many other things.
Same thing with lowering the rear, if you plan on using a rumble seat or any weight in the rear, removing leafs isn't the best route as it will make the rear too soft.

 

[insomniacshotrods]

Sorry, I didnt build it, but looking back over the info he gave me I have the following.

Front: 4" drop axle from Okie Joe Axles
Reversed eye main leaf

Rear: "T" spring with 3 and 5 leafs removed.

Brakes: Mechanicals all around
Flat Head Ted Floaters
Front actuator shaft brackets to get everything lined back up
New cast Drums and pads all around
Tires: Front; 5.50-16 on 4.5" wide
Rear; 7.50-16 on 4.5" wide
Original lever shocks all around.
He credits Lowbuckboz for fabbing the brake actuator brackets and helping to bend the steering arms, and he used 32-34 spring perches. Shocks are not on yet in this photo as you can tell. Hope this helps.

 

[dalton]

I had to do the same thing in front, except used 32 perches to get the brake actuator support up higher. Like you said you sort of have to heat and manipulate the steering arms to clear the backing plates when turning. The drag link arm will also have to be bent to accommodate the new drag link angle and its probably best to use a shortened pitman arm. I did all this and had terrible bump steer with the violent angle of the drag link. The shortened arm helped tremendously.
On mine doing all this now had the tie rod rubbing the oil pan on a sharp turn. I put a dropped area in the center of the tie rod to clear the pan. Once you do that its too short plus you can no longer adjust your toe by simple rotating the rod. I cut the rod in half, used a left and right hand die to rethread the center ends of the now tie rodS and used an oem style tie rod adjuster to reconnect.
Just shows that once you do one thing its a snowball effect leading to many other things.
Same thing with lowering the rear, if you plan on using a rumble seat or any weight in the rear, removing leafs isn't the best route as it will make the rear too soft.

Nice to hear about the shortened pitman arm fix for the bump steer. I'll try that after I drive it for the first time as is. Any pics of the tie rod?

Sorry, I didnt build it, but looking back over the info he gave me I have the following.

Front: 4" drop axle from Okie Joe Axles
Reversed eye main leaf

Rear: "T" spring with 3 and 5 leafs removed.

Brakes: Mechanicals all around
Flat Head Ted Floaters
Front actuator shaft brackets to get everything lined back up
New cast Drums and pads all around
Tires: Front; 5.50-16 on 4.5" wide
Rear; 7.50-16 on 4.5" wide
Original lever shocks all around.
He credits Lowbuckboz for fabbing the brake actuator brackets and helping to bend the steering arms, and he used 32-34 spring perches. Shocks are not on yet in this photo as you can tell. Hope this helps.




Okie Joe did my axle also and I reversed the eye on my front main spring with the help of my friend Chopper's press (see pic). I did a rear "T" spring with leafs 3 & 5 removed IIRC. I made "shims" out of maple to make up the difference in the arc of the spring to disperse the weight more evenly throughout the rear cross member. I don't have any pics of the shims, but here is a pic of the drawing I made of the difference between the springs.

 

[Lowbuckboz]

That sedan looks familiar! Damn nice car!