Lower control arm bushing washers/ shims

P

poolplayer1

Senior Member
Hope this picture goes trough. This are the washers that I am hoping someone here can tell me where they go .The mechanic that was working on the front end of my wagon had put them in a plastic container and marked them 55 ford wagon. Since I did not remove the lower arms myself, I don't know where they go. Thanks guys.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1003 (1).jpg
    IMG_1003 (1).jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 42
I only see one piece of pipe/collar. You need TWO, one for each side.
As far as I know, there is only ONE notched spacer-washer (with top cut off) required on each side. You have two per side. I have been involved with several '55/56 Ford front end suspension rebuilds and all of them had ONE spacer washer per side.

The big thick, curved washers (one per side) go on the suspension pin and lay against the fat part of the rubber in the control arm bushing, then the hex-nut goes on the pin.

The spacer-washer (with top cut off) goes thru the pin on the backside of the front crossmember.

The short piece of pipe/collar fits over the control arm front bushing.

So here is the order: Front crossmember - notched spacer-washer - pipe/collar - control arm bushing - curved washer - locknut - hex nut.
 
The purpose of that notched spacer washer is to push the lower control arm back to offset the spindle in relation to the upper control arm. This was done to get the front tires directed slightly toward the road. This is the basis for a positive camber which was used for all cars having OEM tires.
But if you plan to switch to modern radial tires, you might want to consult with a front end alignment specialist about installing those notched spacer washers between the control arm rear bushing and crossmember pipe under the engine. This will push the lower control arm FOREWARD and change to a negative camber.
It might not be worth it. Additional camber adjustments can be made at the shim packs holding the upper control arms to the frame.
 
Thank you very much Dave's 55 for your help. I am not using the oem style tires anymore. I have the Radial tires on it now. I think for now I will just use the cut-off washers at the front and none in the rear bushing and see how that works. I still can't find coil springs anywhere. Do you know of any place that might have them? Let me know if you do please.
 
All help is always appreciated Dobie. Thanks for the link. I went there and I was able to see where they have springs for my 55. Part # MC1444. I had already called about 10 different places to check and nobody had them or could order them. I appreciate you helping out along with Dave's 55 and others that are always helping out. Its a great forum.
 
If you can't find front coil springs for a '55/56 wagon, call the folks at St. Louis Spring company. I believe they can fabricate duplicate of original springs for you, but it may be kinda pricey.
They are located in St' Louis, Missouri.
 
Thanks Dave's55 for your info. I was able to get the springs from Eaton-Detroit springs. They will probably be here next week. I want to thank everyone that has been helping me with idea's and suggestions, and information on the installation of the bushings. Like I said before, this is a great forum with persons that are willing to help. I really appreciate all the help as I do always.
 
I am ready to install the springs but I noticed that the book I have here says to make sure that the insulators are installed at both upper and lower part of the spring. I have 2 new insulators that I was going to use on the top of each coil. Do I need to order two more for the bottom part of the coil or just go ahead and put the coils in without insulators at the bottom. Just want to make sure I get it right. I don't want to have to mess around with those coils. They are scary and dangerous to remove and install.
Also, are the bottom insulators the same as the top ones?
 
Thank you very much Hot Rod Reverend for your help with my project. I have been getting great help from the group here and with the addition of the link that you have provided, I should be able to get the job done. You have very detailed information with pictures that explain everything in detail. This is very helpful information to me and I am sure to all the group here. Again, thank you.
 
This might help making installing springs easier:
Most coil spring compressors you get from chain auto-parts stores have both a top and bottom set of hooks. But for '54/55/56 Ford cars it is easier to remove the top set of hooks. Adjust the bottom set so they will fit between the second and third coils (this varies depending upon compressor mfr), but get the hooks as low as you can without hitting the control arm. At the top of the threaded rod, get two roller bearings and big washers to sit on top of the spring housing in thew car frame.
Insert your spring rubber insulator into the housing and shove your spring in there with the compressor installed in the spring. Rotate the spring compressor as need to get it in between the coils as needed to avoid hitting the control arm. (it may take a few try's to get it in the best spot). Be sure to have the flat part of the coil upward and rotate the spring so that the bottom end of the spring last coil fits into the indentation in the control arm plate. Go up top and put on the big nut on the spring compressor and tighten the nut till you can raise the control arm in place and fit your spindle/ball-joint assembly into the control arm. Put your bolts in to hold the ball joints to the control arm then loosen the spring compressor threaded rod at the top. Now you are ready to remove the spring compressor.
 
I forgot to mention; if you don't have a helper with you, this can still be a one-man job. Once you have inserted your coil spring in the housing, hold it there with one hand and swing the control arm outward until it "cathes" with the bottom coil of the spring. That will hold the spring up in the housing in the car frame.
Then, when you go up top and start tightening the nut on yor spring compressor, it will pull the coil spring into the housing and leave your control arm right where you had it. Once you get the spring compressed enough, push the bottom of the contol arm upward till you can fit the bottom ball-joint with the control arm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top