Lower a 35 and retain mech brakes?

fftoddster

fftoddster

Senior Member
Is it possible to retain the mechanical brakes on a 35 Ford and lower both front and rear?
Dropped axle up front, rearced spring and shackles in rear.

What problems can I expect?
What needs to be done?

Thx I am completely new to mechanical brakes and do not even own the car yet.. evaluating my options. Want to keep it pretty much stock but have a little better stance.
 
Yes; very do-able.
Front end; you'll need to heat and re-configure the perch bolts so the brake cross shaft can attach and stay in lie with the eye in the spindle bolt.
Rear end; easiest and preferable to longer shackles as you're suggesting, is to make up lowering blocks that fit between the axle housing and radius rod on each side. A sort of tongue and groove affair. Rather than two bolts each side bolting rr to axle, you'll have two bolts attaching lowering block to axle, and another two bolting bottom of lowering block to radius rod.
 
Longer shackles can be a big issue on early Fords. The shackles control the side to side movement of the vehicle and if they are altered you would need to add pan bars to control these side to side movement.
 
Taking into consideration the heavy traffic that is on the road in this day and age, and the fact that most people drive with the peddle to the metal, I would rethink the retention of mechanical brakes on the '35.
There are a lot of moving parts on the mechanical brake system that will need rebuilding, then, at their best they are not safe.
To safely lower the car is much easier if the car has been converted to hydraulic brakes.. I would suggest '42-48 in lieu of '39-41.. The wheel/drum bolt pattern '40-48 is the same as the '35, however, you will need adapters for the wheels to safely fit the later model drums.
Converting the brakes on my '36 was the first thing I did when I bought it in '52..
 
I went with the MP Bendix type on my 37 I was just trying to figure out options and costs if I decide to buy the 35.
 
You can de-arch the springs and lower the car. You can also use reversed eye main leafs on each spring. Non of this will affect the mechanical brakes.
 
Picture of lowering block
 

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"Brian" - Thank you for posting that. I had no idea that anything like that even existed.:eek:
 
I milled them up, but in the absence of such machinery, one could simply fabricate using three layers of plate the correct thickness.
 
As you are altering the car, I agree with those who recommend converting to hydraulic brakes. In today's traffic, we need the best braking possible for safety. Even the best adjusted mechanical brakes usully can't compare.
 
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