Low Compression

GOSFAST said:
It makes no sense to try to locate the "dedicated" pilots for a couple reasons.

First one being the cost, and setting that aside, you would still need to have at least 3 of these to have the "fit" covered.

We have a set of 4, I only have 2 where I am located, but they are also a "select-fit" pilot. They have undersizes AND oversizes the same as conventional pilots. See the photo below, one on the left is 1.0315", the right is 1.032", and there are 2 more we own!

Then one more possible issue, the tops have to correspond to the seat/valve equipment. All our tops are ONLY .437", we set it all up this way for some slightly add'l stability. As I stated earlier here we now use "carbides" mostly.

A conventional pilot costs about $50.00 while a carbide runs about $200.00. These are based on Goodson's prices, AND you still need select fit's in these also! All this pretty much guarantee's a decent fix! All the pilots basically have a .0007" taper built in!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's some photos of the "dedicated" pilots, you can see the size variation even on these. Over the years we've figured we needed from -.002" to +.002", this means 5 pilots to cover most stem sizes.
Click to expand...

Gary in N.Y., with the pilot tool that uses the guide shown in your picture on the right, will you explain that part that is under the guide?
Thanks
 
Bolts said:
Gary in N.Y., with the pilot tool that uses the guide shown in your picture on the right, will you explain that part that is under the guide?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Alex, nothing more than a short "stand" to let the pilot drop down some in the guide for the photo!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To be more precise it is actually a part of the tooling from our Sunnen pin-press setup. It is a support bushing the piston rest on for removing and/or installing pistons off/on connecting rods.
 
My buddies came over with the old Black & Decker grinding stone set up and did their thing! We also lapped in a new valve set up for the intake. I put the head on last night and now I have 95 lbs on that cylinder with no leakage!! Success!!
I'll finish putting everything together this week and hopefully fire it up on the weekend.
Thanks to all!
 
Fired up the Coupe today. So far so good! I pulled the plug wire on cylinder #2 to make sure it's firing and it is!! I will follow up with hot/cold torque down and hopefully everything will be fine
 
Good work!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 9
That shiny clean top of the suspected cylinder sure looks like it's been taking on coolant-any evidence of scrubbed head gasket leaking or coolant past a stud. I just had the same problem on a Model A-top of one piston looked like it has been sandblasted it was so clean. it was a bad head gasket and head needed a trip to machine shop to be milled true.
 
I thought the cylinder looked like it was getting coolant into it cylinder when the photos were posted, but everyone else seemed to think it was fine!
 
Last edited:
poor fuel and not bringing engine up to normal running temp..allows carbon soot to settle under the valve/seat....old school to clean the areas is drizzle 1/2 kero and 1/2 engine oil down throat of carb @ at high idle..worked many times with my merc flattie..that is old school trick...one of the engine miserys..poor design henry,,however it was great back in the day of the invention..
 
Glad to hear that you guys managed to 'fix it' and get some compression back in that cylinder. The engine looks like it's had a few years/miles on it . . . so if this procedure gets you through for awhile, cool by me. I'd start mentally preparing myself for a rebuild in the future - start filling that big jar full of change! That is a good engine block to start with (as long as it isn't cracked), so you have a good base to build from.

Good luck,
D
 
bullrunmotor said:
That shiny clean top of the suspected cylinder sure looks like it's been taking on coolant-any evidence of scrubbed head gasket leaking or coolant past a stud. I just had the same problem on a Model A-top of one piston looked like it has been sandblasted it was so clean. it was a bad head gasket and head needed a trip to machine shop to be milled true.
Click to expand...

JSeery said:
I thought the cylinder looked like it was getting coolant into it back when the photos were posted, but everyone else seemed to think it was fine!
Click to expand...

I didn't really see anything on the block, head or gasket that looked like it was leaking into the cylinder.
Is there something I should look for while it's running?
Any other way to tell?
 
Ronnie said:
Neway build any hub combo you want. Using neway they really don't have to be lapped only verify seat location on the valve with a felt pen.Lapping a good seat only verifies location.The neway will produce that seat.The lapping has been discussed many times before with the felt pen and is a tried and true process. .375" is common to snap on B&D and neway,and a couple more don't recall. Sioux is .385" kwik way is .4375" all this does is made their system proprietary. Now you know why neway build anything you want.They know in most instances cutters are superior to stones and last much longer and no sharpening required. All in all it is a reliable system many shops use it as well as other carbide seat systems.Neway really shines in the small engine world and motorcycles,most use it. The rest of your thoughts are correct as to different cutters and required tooling. That's my 2¢ "LOL"

R
Click to expand...

As far as ONE adjustable lifter, I'm overhauling an 8ba that I found to be this way. It appears the one cyl with an adjustable lifter has a repaired and staked in exhaust valve seat, so it was repaired at one time with one hollow adjustable lifter. Judging by the looks, it ran just fine after the repair. It looks like something I would do!
 
I went through three heat/cool cycles and everything looks good. I took the coupe out for a nice 20 mile ride varying from back roads to highway. The motor performed perfectly!
 
Great News! Can you let the group here know what parts you put back into it? Did you put a late one-piece guide, valve, spring and adjustable lifter into that one location - or the stock split guides, 5/16 mushroom valve, etc..? Just curious - might help another person down the road.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Great News! Can you let the group here know what parts you put back into it? Did you put a late one-piece guide, valve, spring and adjustable lifter into that one location - or the stock split guides, 5/16 mushroom valve, etc..? Just curious - might help another person down the road.
Click to expand...

Yes it is great news!! I put the 8BA style valves in with one piece guides and adjustable lifters. I ended up installing a new set up on the intake side also.
Thank you,
Joe
 
jrvariel48 said:
Yes it is great news!! I put the 8BA style valves in with one piece guides and adjustable lifters. I ended up installing a new set up on the intake side also.
Thank you,
Joe
Click to expand...

Hi Joe, never doubted for a "New York" minute it wasn't going to work??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Lots of work I know but the experience was worth it all!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top