Low Compression

Here's the pictures with the valve out. The seat does not look good.
Please tell me this could be repaired in the car.:confused:
 

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The engine has a lot more problems than just that valve. The one valve seat MIGHT be able to be repaired in place with the correct equipment. Now can you find someone with the equipment and experience to repair it in place?

The next question would be why did this occur in the first place, water is (or was at least) getting into that cylinder from somewhere.
 
JSeery said:
The engine has a lot more problems than just that valve. The one valve seat MIGHT be able to be repaired in place with the correct equipment. Now can you find someone with the equipment and experience to repair it in place?

The next question would be why did this occur in the first place, water is (or was at least) getting into that cylinder from somewhere.
Click to expand...

What other problems are we talking about? The motor was in a 1946 COE so I don't know how long it sat or what it's life was like. Other than the low compression on that cylinder, it ran excellent. Shouldn't I had overheating or at least saw white smoke from the exhaust? I still need to remove the head gasket from the block to see if there's any cracks.
None of this is sounding good:(
 
Hard to tell from what I can see, but is that pitting into the valve seat or carbon build up on top of the valve seat?
 
That is a dead player not much hope to bring it back to life needs a seat to do it properly.

R
 
jrvariel48 said:
What other problems are we talking about? The motor was in a 1946 COE so I don't know how long it sat or what it's life was like. Other than the low compression on that cylinder, it ran excellent. Shouldn't I had overheating or at least saw white smoke from the exhaust? I still need to remove the head gasket from the block to see if there's any cracks.
None of this is sounding good:(
Click to expand...

From just the photos you posted there are several other valves that do not look in good shape. The block surface shows that there has been water issues in other areas (around the water passages). There is corrosion and carbon in the combustion area, etc. If you are wanting to run it the way it is that's certainly an option, just not something I would do. The block could well be cracked and that is what is allowing the water into the cylinders. A running engine does not equate to a good engine. Many a running engine is beyond repair when taken apart and inspected. That may or may not apply to your engine, just something to keep in mind. I would suggest you weigh the cost of a quick repair with the possible of future failure vs taking it apart and inspecting it to ensure a sound block for your investment.
 
I wouldn't try to fix it in place. As JSeery noted, could be more sinister problems lurking that would show up with a pressure test. It needs to come out and completely apart to do it right.
 
JSeery said:
From just the photos you posted there are several other valves that do not look in good shape. The block surface shows that there has been water issues in other areas (around the water passages). There is corrosion and carbon in the combustion area, etc. If you are wanting to run it the way it is that's certainly an option, just not something I would do. The block could well be cracked and that is what is allowing the water into the cylinders. A running engine does not equate to a good engine. Many a running engine is beyond repair when taken apart and inspected. That may or may not apply to your engine, just something to keep in mind. I would suggest you weigh the cost of a quick repair with the possible of future failure vs taking it apart and inspecting it to ensure a sound block for your investment.
Click to expand...

Thanks JSeery, I always welcome your input and experience. I'm not sure what to do right now as I was not expecting this at all. Money, of course, is a huge factor right now.
 
Can you post photos of the head and head gasket? Normally inspection of the surfaces will indicate a leak and that is not shown by what you have posted.

If your objective is simply to get it running again, for whatever reason, keep in mind that these things are air pumps, low compression air pumps. Its hard to tell from the photos if the seat is pitted or merely covered with carbon. Clean the carbon from the seat with a scotch-brite wheel, or other means, stuff something in the port to keep the schmutz down. Once the seat is clean, if it is not pitted excessively, put some valve grinding compound on the valve and lap the valve to the seat. Clean it all up and check the valve lash, and adjust as needed. There are guys here who are going to cry foul but there is a difference between putting an engine back to "new limits" vs "serviceable limits". Most engines in the world are operating at serviceable limits for economic reasons.
 
Get a hand seat cutter, see if she ll come back to clean seat in that worst bit, grind in the valve and get on. That all looks fine to me, the corrosion is around the water holes is just where gasket holes are bigger. Be careful to not disturb too much crap, and use old gasket. If yr short of dough at the moment you cant do any harm, get er back on the road!
 
How bad can the engine be with comp in 6 cylinders at 110lbs and one at 85 lbs.i would take a look at the 85lb cyl and grind the seat on the bad cyl. Phil
 
Yes, it would sure be nice if money was not an issue and we could all afford to make everything on our cars to new or better than new specs.

Reality is most cannot do that and the high cost of having a flathead built is not always practical for everyone to do (perhaps why so many have newer higher horsepower small blocks in place for a fraction of the cost :( )

"Back in the day" I am sure that many repairs have been made to these cars to just keep them on the road without doing complete ($6k today) plus rebuilds.

If it was me and I could not afford a complete overhaul, I would look at block to see if any obvious cracks. If none and I could clean up that seat and valve I would. (providing that that is build up on the seat, as stated earlier I cannot tell from photo) Throw a head gasket on it and recheck. Would not cost much and you may be back in business.
If it works your back on the road for a few bucks, then keep an eye on it.

Or I could take that coupe off his hands for cheap and I will deal with the problems.
Would love to see more pics of your ride.

I like the saying on Tony Martinos posts: "Life is too short to restore every car, fix 'em and drive 'em the way that they are. "
 
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He engine is a 59L truck engine factory relieved, the seats look pretty ruff, look like they will grind alright, grind the valves or new ones, grind the valve stems for clearance or adjustable lifters, engine will be all right to haul gravel. Walt
 
Thanks everyone for making me feel a whole lot better!!!
I spoke to some of my hot rod buddy's and they have the Neway cutters to get this done! The main concern was the amount of material that needed to be removed to get a clean surface. Can I remove the original non adjustable lifter and install an adjustable one with a straight valve?? I can always butt grind a valve, but I wanted to see if that was an option.
Thanks again!
Joe
 
The deeper you cut the seat, the more stem is going to have to be removed for clearance. Since the flatheads have removable guides that are a slip fit and somewhat loose, piloting can be a problem in situ. There are specific pilots for the 1-inch bore too so you need to find a flathead friendly machinist. There will need to be accuracy if the seat has to be replaced. An adjustable follower can be used but you will need something approximately the same weight as the OEM cam followers to keep things happy in there. You may have to pull the engine just to do the repair and the more you look, the more you generally find wrong with these old motors.

I hope it works out to your advantage.
 
^^^ I don't think your buddies with the new way cutters are going to have the correct pilot as stated above. I have worked with New Way for 30+years and you will need the correct pilot. They also come in different stem sizes and aren't made any more. The same scenario is there when you use stones for grinding.The pilot is specific.There is a chance someone will have the correct pilot in their grinding set that you can use with the new way.It all depends what hubs the cutters have.The pilot is actually is larger than 1"It all awaits the correct pilot being found.

R
 
Just to be clear here, you don't need the "dedicated" (1.000") pilot to do any valve/seat work, we do have the correct pilots here but don't use them at all.

You simply use an 8BA guide along with any "conventional" 11/32" pilot, this setup works fine. If necessary it's easy to make the (1-piece) OEM guide a snug fit in the casting!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I had also recommended (to Joe) that a slightly larger valve might really be helpful in getting into a better location on the seat, an area that may not have all that corrosion. Something along the lines of a Ford truck may "fit the bill"?? There is a one that measures 1.560" with the right length. If this works it wouldn't be necessary (maybe) to "sink" the valve way deep!
 
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